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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Huebner, Darren Singer
Page Views: 2,478 total, 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

"And you will know my name is The Lord, when I lay my vengeance upon thee! " This striking finger splitter to hands/fist crack has some classic jamming and is on the easier side of 5.11. Another striking all natural gear line.

Just to the right of Black and Tan. Work your way up to the splitter by either climbing the start of Black and Tan, or you can opt for the more direct start which is a bit headier. Whichever way you start get to the splitter finger crack which winds it's way up the left side of the column past good jams, and a few lovely jugs. Hand/fist crack takes you to the top of the pillar, and a rest before the final bouldery section to meet up at the Black and Tan anchors.

Location

Right Side.

Protection

Doubles up to a #3 camalot. Save some hand sized pieces for the top.
Matt Enlow
Wyoming
 
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
 
The direct is definitely the better way to do the route. Much more fun.

Just take your time (and micros) Apr 17, 2017
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Direct start offers a more quality option to reach the splitter. There is a bit of loose stuff here and there that is easily avoided and it's mostly very solid. Doesn't look like much from below but turns out to be great technical face climbing with solid gear that appears when you need it. 10+? 11-? Takes RP's, nuts, cams from 00c3 to yellow alien. It looks spicy but numerous holds and placements keep appearing as you go. Apr 4, 2016
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Really fun! When it starts to get hard just look for a jug, they're there. Oct 27, 2013
Darren Singer
Portland, OR
Darren Singer   Portland, OR
FA of this route done by Jeff Huebner and followed by Darren Singer. Done shortly after FA of Black & Tan. For those interested, the extra pair of bolt holes near the top are remnant of earlier anchor - the crack on top section of these routes was impassible as it was filled with razor rock debris that I couldn't get out until returning later with the trusty crowbar. May 15, 2010
Mike
Phoenix
  5.11
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11
I struggled a bit at the crux, then just when you need it a perfect hold appears to ease things up a bit. Jul 9, 2009