Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jeff Huebner, Darren Singer 1994
Page Views: 2,682 total · 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

"And you will know my name is The Lord, when I lay my vengeance upon thee! " This striking finger splitter to hands/fist crack has some classic jamming and is on the easier side of 5.11. Another striking all natural gear line. Better climb it before it topples over.

Just to the right of Black and Tan. Work your way up to the splitter by either climbing the start of Black and Tan, or you can opt for the more direct start which is a bit headier. Whichever way you start get to the splitter finger crack which winds it's way up the left side of the column past good jams, and a few lovely jugs. Hand/fist crack takes you to the top of the pillar, and a rest before the final bouldery section to meet up at the Black and Tan anchors.

Location

Right Side.

Protection

Doubles up to a #3 camalot. Save some hand sized pieces for the top. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners.

Photos

Mike
Phoenix
  5.11
Mike   Phoenix
  5.11
I struggled a bit at the crux, then just when you need it a perfect hold appears to ease things up a bit. Jul 9, 2009
Darren Singer
Portland, OR
Darren Singer   Portland, OR
FA of this route done by Jeff Huebner and followed by Darren Singer. Done shortly after FA of Black & Tan. For those interested, the extra pair of bolt holes near the top are remnant of earlier anchor - the crack on top section of these routes was impassible as it was filled with razor rock debris that I couldn't get out until returning later with the trusty crowbar. May 15, 2010
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Really fun! When it starts to get hard just look for a jug, they're there. Oct 27, 2013
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Direct start offers a more quality option to reach the splitter. There is a bit of loose stuff here and there that is easily avoided and it's mostly very solid. Doesn't look like much from below but turns out to be great technical face climbing with solid gear that appears when you need it. 10+? 11-? Takes RP's, nuts, cams from 00c3 to yellow alien. It looks spicy but numerous holds and placements keep appearing as you go. Apr 4, 2016
Matt Enlow
Wyoming
 
Matt Enlow   Wyoming
 
The direct is definitely the better way to do the route. Much more fun.

Just take your time (and micros) Apr 17, 2017