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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Kor and Northcutt, 1961
Page Views: 103 total, 2/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the obvious dihedral of which Bands of Gold contrives to stay on the left wall. The first 20 feet or so are the crux. Above, the angle decreases and the terrain degenerates. On 9/23/74, I led Jay Mather up this route, to the top of the rock.

A good one-pitch outing is to climb trad (5.9ish) in the dihedral and up to the fifth bolt on Bands. Continue right and up, clipping more bolts and placing gear, but avoiding the 11d on Bands. Eventually, you can reach back left to Bands. Clip more bolts and climb 5.10 to the top of Bands.

Location

This is the obvious right-facing dihedral where Bands begins.

Protection

SR.

Photos

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