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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bob Horan
Page Views: 162 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the climb immediately right of F**k You. Look for a dihedral with very closely spaced bolts. Climb the dihedral to a huge ledge. The closeness of the bolts suggest that it is intended to climb closer to the arete, but the corner is right there.

From the ledge, wander up a loose, vegetated ledge to a line of bolts on the upper headwall. One could also avoid the ledge traverse by continuing straight up on the excellent upper part of F**k You. Make a sketchy move to clip the first bolt on the headwall, and follow the line of bolts to the top.

Protection

12 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

A fun (mostly trad) 5.10 variation can be climbed in the dihedral, a few feet to the right of the first four bolts. Continue up to the fifth bolt, staying to the right of the 11d section. Clip more bolts and place more gear, as you reach back left to the upper part of Bands and climb 5.10 to its anchors. Nov 1, 2013
Blkjesus
  5.11c/d PG13
Blkjesus  
  5.11c/d PG13
I found this climb and loved it, it has a lot for a moderate climb - crimps, slaps, slopes, heels, cracks, aretes, and much much more - but I agree with the above mentioned statement. Whomever bolted this route needs to do the rest of the climbing world a favor and never bolt again. My favorite part is the bolt that was placed too deeply and is simply sitting in the face with no anchor whatsoever - thank you for not actually putting an anchor on that bolt by the way - but the route is a very interesting climb. Altogether, the landing is stellar, the climb is in the shade and bolts 5-14 are part of an amazing climb. Glad I found it, if it wasn't for the bolting, I would have rated this a 2 star problem. Aug 12, 2011
Aeon Aki    
 
I found this to be the most poorly bolted (dangerous) sport climb I've done in Boulder Canyon. At the bottom, the bolts are so close you might z-clip, then it's "adventure sport climbing" through plants, trees, loose rock, and hard to reach bolt hangers above the first big ledge. The upper section of this pitch is extremely dirty and the anchors are positioned in a way that causes continuous strain on the rope.

The overall line is very nice however and a few pieces of supplemental gear (and a wire brush) might make this climb more enjoyable. Jul 12, 2011