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Routes in Black Widow Slab
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Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 134 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Nov 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
I named this after a similar climb that I led near the Cookie Monster, in Nevada's Red Rocks.
Between the bolted project (which is just right of Dracula) and Spectre is a recess below a hanging chimney. On Aug 19, I started on the left edge of the recess, using jugs on overhanging face. I clipped a few bolts, then started placing gear. Higher, I reached left with a sling and clipped another bolt. Using my chicken wing, I attempted to burrow into the offwidth, which eventually opened into a dirty chamber. I climbed up to its ceiling and chickened out. I belayed David Light up, and he solved the intimidating exit to the right, to Spectre's anchors. While I was belaying, I noticed a moderate-looking face that exited the chamber from low on climber's right.
Between the bolted project (which is just right of Dracula) and Spectre is a recess below a hanging chimney. On Aug 19, I started on the left edge of the recess, using jugs on overhanging face. I clipped a few bolts, then started placing gear. Higher, I reached left with a sling and clipped another bolt. Using my chicken wing, I attempted to burrow into the offwidth, which eventually opened into a dirty chamber. I climbed up to its ceiling and chickened out. I belayed David Light up, and he solved the intimidating exit to the right, to Spectre's anchors. While I was belaying, I noticed a moderate-looking face that exited the chamber from low on climber's right.
Location
Between the bolted project on the left and Spectre, on the right, is an obvious chimney/recess system.
Photos
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