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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl
Page Views: 1,740 total, 14/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a really nice route on great rock. Unfortunately, it's a bit contrived.

Climb through a series of roofs using blocky sidepulls and underclings until you encounter the crux- pulling onto the slab. Avoid using the corner to your right, and continue up the tricky slab to the anchors.

Location

On the northeast corner of the buttress.

Protection

This route is fully bolted, but a #2 Camalot can be used to protect the easy climbing between the last bolt and the chains.

Since the first clip is hard, you may want a stick clip.

Photos

Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a decent 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon. Aug 26, 2014
Matt Battaglia
  5.13a
Matt Battaglia  
  5.13a
I agree with the comment that not using the right wall at all bumps this grade to 13a, though it is highly contrived not to use it. According to popular folklore the route was previously rated 12d and was forced right into the corner because there was no bolt on the face to go straight up. Now a bolt is added and we have a great but a bit contrived route. Aug 25, 2009
Kaelen Willaims
  5.12d
Kaelen Willaims  
  5.12d
Really good route. Felt more like hard .12d than .13a. Has had draws on it for at least two months. What's the deal? Sep 26, 2008
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Great summer route that stays in the shade most of the day. A four-tiered roof followed by a tricky face with a slight run to the chains. A kneepad (right knee) and taping (right hand) is helpful depending on your beta. Aug 2, 2008
Ken Younge
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Ken Younge   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
This is a great route. The grade probably drops if you cop a rest (even a shoulder scum) from the right corner before you head into the upper-slab crux. Jul 27, 2008