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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: David Goldstein, Dougald MacDonald, Jack Roberts
Page Views: 266 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Start on Specter, but break right instead of left through the alcove roof about 20 feet off the ground. Step right again and climb a steep crack system. Cruxes at the first roof and at the start of the upper crack system. After the second crux, move right to find a protectable crack, then step back left and continue to the Specter anchors. Above the cruxes is lots of fun 5.9-ish climbing.

This is a continuous, complex, steep, exciting, and excellent lead that required three visits (two for Dave) and some short but bruising falls to complete. Dave got the redpoint. An onsight would be a worthy challenge.


One set of wires to about #6; Camalots to #3, with doubles from 0.5 to 2; two yellow Aliens (or equivalents). Plus: A yellow Black Diamond C3 is the perfect piece to protect the first crux, at the right side of the alcove; back it up with a slightly smaller piece. Save two hand-size pieces for the second crux. Use long slings below the roof and on the first piece in the right-hand crack system to eliminate rope drag.


Fun times; —plenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high. Jun 21, 2014
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
Mitch Friedeman   Boulder, CO
I placed a yellow C3 in the slot at the end of the roof, because a 0.4 didn't fit right. Pulled around the corner and punted. I blew the c3 and decked (my lower #1 Camalot in the stem slot slowed me down a little). A 0.3/0.4 BD offset would probably be perfect in that slot. Take care placing gear at the end of the roof, because it is a blind placement, and it is easy to biff once you're around the corner. Jun 28, 2018

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