Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: David Goldstein, Dougald MacDonald, Jack Roberts
Page Views: 276 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start on Specter, but break right instead of left through the alcove roof about 20 feet off the ground. Step right again and climb a steep crack system. Cruxes at the first roof and at the start of the upper crack system. After the second crux, move right to find a protectable crack, then step back left and continue to the Specter anchors. Above the cruxes is lots of fun 5.9-ish climbing.

This is a continuous, complex, steep, exciting, and excellent lead that required three visits (two for Dave) and some short but bruising falls to complete. Dave got the redpoint. An onsight would be a worthy challenge.

Protection

One set of wires to about #6; Camalots to #3, with doubles from 0.5 to 2; two yellow Aliens (or equivalents). Plus: A yellow Black Diamond C3 is the perfect piece to protect the first crux, at the right side of the alcove; back it up with a slightly smaller piece. Save two hand-size pieces for the second crux. Use long slings below the roof and on the first piece in the right-hand crack system to eliminate rope drag.

Photos

Pinklebear  
 
Fun times; —plenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high. Jun 21, 2014
Mitch Friedeman
Boulder, CO
 
Mitch Friedeman   Boulder, CO
 
I placed a yellow C3 in the slot at the end of the roof, because a 0.4 didn't fit right. Pulled around the corner and punted. I blew the c3 and decked (my lower #1 Camalot in the stem slot slowed me down a little). A 0.3/0.4 BD offset would probably be perfect in that slot. Take care placing gear at the end of the roof, because it is a blind placement, and it is easy to biff once you're around the corner. Jun 28, 2018