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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 115 total, 2/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on May 14, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

On May 8, 1974, Nate Zinsser and I did a climb that began a little farther right of The Fire Down Below, up mossy, grungy rock to the only good section of this climb: a short, clean, right-leaning dihedral with a hand crack (5.8 or 9), which I led. This dihedral is strenuous because its crack overhangs to the west (up-canyon) before going vertical. It lies about 80 or more feet above the ground and is easy to see from the ground and from the highway. In the photo on p. 179 of D'Antonio's guidebook [first edition], the dotted line for route #15 ends on a large block; our short dihedral defines the right edge of said block. (D'Antonio should have drawn the line for #15 farther left, along the right-angling corner visible between two trees in that photo. The top of #15 and 16 is also a lot lower than the top of his dotted line.) Nate and I continued to trend left above, joining "Right Side." We could call our route "The Far Right."

Location

Begin just right of the grungy gully that is immediately right of The Fire Down Below. Climb mossy rock to reach the clean crux dihedral.

Protection

SR: plus extra hand- and (maybe) fist-size. Climb and scramble off.

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