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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 4,037 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jake Wyatt on Sep 8, 2003 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route lies on the left-side of the rock, just left of "Consilence". This is a long pitch and a 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground...Eds. a 70 doesn't get you to the ground either. Tie a knot in the end of the rope and have your belayer walk up and left so you can reach the ground. Or trail a rope and rappel off. Nice face and slab climbing is the highlight of this route. There is a fair amount of moss on the route, so those who don't like a little dirt might want to stay away. The route has a alpine feel and with more ascents will get cleaner. A nice warm-up for the the harder routes on this wall.

Protection

Fifteen bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. A 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground. Be careful!!! A 70m rope MAY reach the ground if your belayer gets to the base of the climb.
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Great climb. It has cleaned up quite well - I don't even remember any moss on route except some easily avoidable on the easy ramp in the middle of climb. Super long and generally sustained except for a short section in the middle. Felt more like consistent 5.9 to me than 5.10 movement...even for BOCAN. 70m just works, but be careful and tie a knot. Thanks to the equipers. Oct 5, 2017
Luke Clarke
Golden
 
Luke Clarke   Golden
 
This is a nice, long and sustained route out of direct sun nearly all the time, a cool alternative in warm weather. Aug 21, 2017
Vincent K
Boulder, CO
Vincent K   Boulder, CO
Climbed this yesterday. It's nice and long. We wanted to summit the whole tower, so I led up above the anchors. You can get a good cam in the undercling above the anchors, but that's pretty much the last good piece. Further up, there's a shitty bolt that I don't trust - maybe an old Star Dryvin that wasn't driven in all the way with the nail bent over. Anyway, even above the bolt, I didn't see gear opportunities so I downclimbed (it looks like there is in the photo, but there isn't). The climbing wasn't too hard, but all the moss and no pro made it feel sketchy. Looks like it could have been cool had I made it all the way to the large, horizontal crack below the roof systems. Anyone tried it?



Sep 14, 2014
Greg Talling
Boulder, Colorado
Greg Talling   Boulder, Colorado
I found some climbing shoes at the base of Kate Moss. If they are yours, send me a message. Greg Jun 23, 2014
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.10b/c
There is very little moss on this route. It has cleaned up well. Very consistent climbing with almost no gimmies. Aug 14, 2013
A very good and long pitch. And a good warm up for the other great climbs here. It seems that this area is somewhat overlooked as the climbs are excellent and the competition for routes is nil. There is a quick link on the 3rd bolt about 30 feet up which allows one to rappel from the anchors and then pull the rope and rap again from the 3rd bolt. It looked like a much better set up for descending could easily be set up by putting a double anchor 3 bolts down from the top and then extending the upper 3 bolts into another 60 meter pitch. Curious since the descent takes away from the quality of the route. Sep 28, 2008
slim

  5.9-
slim    
  5.9-
Excellent 5.8 or maybe 5.9 climbing with good bolting, not too close together and good clipping stances. A very nice, long pitch with great climbing. 70m just gets you off, so pay attention. Sep 1, 2008
Brendan Leonard
Denver, Hollarado
 
Brendan Leonard   Denver, Hollarado
 
I had a blast on this route. Lots of fun moves, and maybe most of the offending moss is gone now? Whatever. We used a 70-meter rope and still didn't reach the ground -- my partner lowered me to the end of the rope and I untied from about 5 feet up, where there was a good stance. May 30, 2008
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Wasn't that much fun. Go Plotinus Wall if you REALLY want to get on some good .10s. Vaino and Bob hit it on the head over there. Chore Boy and Mr. Sandman are excellent! Aug 20, 2007
S. Kimball  
 
Perhaps a bit of mass hysteria here,unless B and V have a 2nd pitch planned, i'd have left it to the mosses. Jun 27, 2005
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Still a bit dirty, but intricate, varied and sustained. This is a top-notch pitch! Aug 4, 2004
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
  5.10c
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
  5.10c
I was put off going to this climb by all the moss talk. If you have to touch any moss, you have wandered off route. This is a fantastic climb. Probably the best sport route of its grade in the canyon. On a hot afternoon, it is a most pleasant location with a natural swamp cooler nearby. Plus, there are two harder routes at the same location. Bring two ropes, or a real loooooong one. Jul 19, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Even with the moss, the moves are so good that this is a three-star climb. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Bring a 70m rope or two ropes; the pitch is about 130' long. Jul 17, 2004
Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
  5.10b
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
  5.10b
What a great route! Excellent, sustained, varied movement over a long pitch. Nice shade for a hot summer day, with a reasonably comfortable belay zone. A 70 meter rope just makes it back down from the anchors. Thanks Vaino and Bob. Jun 7, 2004