Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, 1996
Page Views: 269 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Jul 8, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Decent climbing, but short. As Rolofson says, "Don't be fooled", it's much harder than it looks. Angle left past the first bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Move left around the arete and up to the roof. At this point you are just right of Wired which escapes out left around the roof. Layback the right side of the roof, crux, via one of at least two methods.

This felt much harder to everyone in our group of 3 than either Consilience or Gyromancy which we had done clean earlier in the day. We all fell and hung several times on Smoke Down. Perhaps it's not technically harder, but it's harder to do clean due to the steepness and treachery of the layback.

Location

On the right side of Black Widow where the rock becomes really grungy. Just right of Wired, a right-facing, right leaning trad corner capped by a roof.

Protection

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with rings.

Photos

Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
I'm not sure that this is a full three star route, but it's certainly worth doing. It's very engaging for how short it is. Jul 5, 2009
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
I thought this was a really nice little route. Good variety, and the top looks a little bit intimidating - but it unfolds perfectly. Sep 19, 2012