Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Sangdahl & Baldwin
Page Views: 2,157 total · 13/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is a very nice sport climb on the North Face of Black Widow. Immediately around the corner from Vaino/BobD's new routes, right of Dracula and the Resinator is this pitch.

The lower section features back-to-back mantles to get established at a no-hands rest. The next section climbs a knobby face to a ledge with an intermediate anchor. Avoid stemming into the adjacent corner in this section, that is slightly contrived and thus the reason this is a 2-star climb and not 3. Unclip the anchor draw and (if you can reach it) the last bolt on the lower section to alleviate rope drag on this wandering pitch. The upper section makes a traverse left to a crack, followed by a tricky traverse back right and eventually into a jug hole (crux). It is easier climbing to the top.

Bring a 60m rope since this is a fairly long one.


14 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is also an intermediate anchor.


To clarify this route description, the second section stays just to the right of the wide crack using pockets and face holds that move upwards and right to finish with a thin crack and the anchors. Also, I did the first free ascent after setting this route up. -John Baldwin. May 1, 2010
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to climb it, staying on the face the whole time is way contrived. If this route stopped at the first anchor, I still think it would be 12b due to the hard start. Jul 17, 2013
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
Thanks for your comment, Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes, & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route.

Yes, the crux is at 2nd bolt. I do prefer to avoid stemming to the mossy dihedral (around 8th bolt), because the face climbing up the seam is so cool. Stemming takes away from the sustained nature of this part of the climb. Yes, you can call it contrived if you like. The nearby dirty corner detracts from the quality, but it is obvious to me that it is off route. May 22, 2015
Dave J  
A key hold broke at the second bolt, making that move left much more difficult. Aug 23, 2015
Mark Rolofson
Mark Rolofson  
I don't know what hold broke at the 2nd bolt. I was on this climb in Fall 2016. It seems like it's the same hard move with small holds that it always was. I have always climbed it just left of 2nd bolt. Perhaps you were trying it more to the right. Mar 26, 2017
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
If Dracula is 12b, this thing is certainly harder...cool route, but it's a bit weird at the start. The finish is amazing and pumpy if you stay on the face. Aug 1, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Positive albeit sharp grips in the crux. Excellent movement above the crux on some great rock. Feels right on in the grade and stays relatively shady all summer. Oct 6, 2018