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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vanio Kodas and Moe Hershoff
Page Views: 5,218 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

I am going to go out on a limb here. This is one of the best slab route in the area. This climb offers continuous, quality climbing up a near vertical face/slab on knobs and small edges that lead to expose moves out a small overhang just below the anchor. A longer and better version of the "Scientist" with a hard move to gain a ledge near the top. The route starts on the northeast face of the rock just left of the old "Left Side" route. Climb up to the first bolt with caution or just stick-clip it. Reach a small crack and the first of several technical moves. Fire straight up on good holds and reach a small ledge. Climb up through a small bulge and get ready for 40 feet of great, near vertical slab climbing. The crux is getting to the ledge just below the overhang. Reach the ledge, climb right out the overhang on good edges and cruise up to the anchor.I would give this route four stars if not for dirt and a little moss still on the route. Should clean up nicely with more ascents. Be careful lowering as a 60 meter rope barely makes it to the ground.

Protection

15 bolts lead to a two bolt anchor. You need at least a 60 meter rope to reach the ground!

Descent

Per Mark Rolofson: bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend.
BL
BL  
From talking to BobD on the day he put this up, I know that the FA date was August 26, 2003, not January 1, 2002.

Also, somehow the cliff got left out here. According to what Bob told me, this route is on the extreme left side of the Black Widow Slab, sorta in the gully area between Black Widow and Vampire, or at least that's how I understood what Bob said.

This route is clearly visible from Blood Doll on Vampire.

I'm looking forward to trying it, it sounds cool.

BobL Aug 29, 2003
David A. Turner
  5.11b
David A. Turner  
  5.11b
There may be only one other slab climb better than this in Boulder Canyon. That would be, in my opinion, Bearcat Goes to Hollywood. We had rope shortage with 60 meters, and had to leave a biner. It was worth it. Finding the route is straightforward. It is not very far up the gully between Black Widow and Vampire. The picture on the route description makes its location obvious. There is another route just to the left (Kate Moss?) that is unappealing in appearance. Jun 7, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
A stellar climb; probably the best sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Continuously interesting climbing from bottom to top, with many 5.10 moves and several spots of 5.11. The route was quite clean, with no moss or lichen in evidence.

The move to the first bolt wasn't too bad; I didn't feel the need for a stick clip.

A 70m rope works well, allowing you to lower or rappel with a few feet of rope to spare. Aug 26, 2004
Tom Painter
  5.11b
Tom Painter  
  5.11b
Fantastic climb - the midsection is reminiscent of the second pitch of Earth Voyage in Dream - delicate diagonal. We predict though that we'll hear soon about someone decking off of this line - 60m given the variability in lengths of 60m cords isn't necessarily sufficient - 70m better! Kate Moss and the neighbor to the right are worthy warmups as well. Sep 11, 2004
Bob Rotert
5.10+
Bob Rotert  
5.10+
Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob!

I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11.

Maybe I am off here but it makes me think I was on the wrong route ...
To offer some benchmark comparisons for perspective.

> Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b,
> last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b,
> 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a,
> 1st pitch of Country Club rated 11c,
> Naked Edge

Don't get me wrong. I'm not dissing the route, at all, because it is great climbing and really fun. A great addition by Bob, Vanio & Moe all of whom can can climb way harder than this. However nothing on this route feels even close to as hard as any single crux on the comparison routes I listed. That's just my opinion in trying to bring some perspective to some route ratings in Bolter Canyon which many times seems to be on some other scale than the US Yosemite Decimal System when it comes to ratings on many of the bolted routes. Line this up next to slab routes else where in the USA rated 11 and I don't think it compares.

Enjoy, but watch out when lowering off this one as a 200 foot rope is not quite long enough to get you all the way down!!! Jun 15, 2005
Bruce Pech
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Bruce Pech   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Superb, sustained slab climbing. The crux is at least .11a and probably .11b. If you plan on climbing Kate Moss as well as Consilience, a 70m rope (or two 60s) is mandatory. Lowering from Consilience takes 105' -110' of rope; lowering from Kate Moss takes about 115'. Aug 8, 2005
An awesome pitch! One of the best in Boulder Canyon at the rating. I agree with the 11b/c for onsight. A little easier once you know where the secret holds are. Sep 28, 2008
Alan Doak
boulder, co
  5.10
Alan Doak   boulder, co
  5.10
I hate to sound like I'm ragging on Boulder Canyon grades. I usually agree with them, and besides, I expect each area (and climber) to have their own biases one way or another. But, compared to the slabs I've done in JTree, Squamish and the Valley, I think this route is way over graded. It's still a fun route though. Nov 5, 2008
60 m rope puts you like 20' off the ground when lowering....
Grade seems good-ish to me..? Sep 19, 2010
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Really good route. Overall more sustained than The Scientist over at Plotinus, but the actual crux is significantly easier. Being a slab, you can pretty much rest anywhere on it, so overall I would say this is easier than The Scientist. Nice, long route with good rock quality and continuous climbing. Jul 18, 2012
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
  5.11d
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
  5.11d
Fantastic line. I think this feels more like 11d than 11a/b. Felt harder than almost all of the 11s I've done at Rifle or in Boulder Canyon. Sep 8, 2013
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
This route is excellent, with great rock, great moves, and interesting holds. Some shenanigans were required to lower with a 60m rope. Sep 9, 2013
Mark Rolofson
  5.11b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11b
Great route. Thanks, Vaino, for doing such a fine job bolting & cleaning. That said, shame on Bob D'Antonio for putting it in his Boulder Canyon guidebook that you can get down this climb with a 60 meter rope & to Ron Olsen for doing so in this post. Please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (2005)" that states bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend. A guidebook writer shouldn't given a pass by the climbing community or industry for such a dangerous error.

So here is a trick to get down this route with a 60 meter rope. Anchor in at the top anchor & be taken off belay. Pull the rope up through all the protection bolts & drop it back to the ground. Have your belayer put you back on belay. Make sure they put a knot in the end of the rope. As you are lowered, the belayer can walk left uphill so they are standing on higher ground. This should solve the problem & allow you to lower to the ground. May 5, 2015
A stellar slab route. Definitely "well" bolted. Would be quite a bit more fun if the bolting was a bit spicier...but very fun. I found it easier than Gyromancy, and would suggest a grade of no harder than 5.11a. Jul 26, 2015

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