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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Kor?
Page Views: 871 total, 6/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details


This nice climb is located just left of Smoke Down near the right side of the rock. It goes up the obvious, right-facing dihedral past the roof. The climbing is thin and fairly sustained, with interesting stemming and footwork. The crux is moving up to a stance below the roof. From there, nice jugs can be found to pull over the roof, and it's much easier 5.7 or 5.8 crack and face climbing from there to the anchors. Rap from the anchors at Smoke Down.

The climb might warrant an "s" rating, but if the small nuts and RPs hold, then it should be considered reasonably safe. This is a very nice warmup for some of the other routes nearby.


RPs and small wired nuts, plus a few small to medium cams. I used a #3 RP at the crux, so a Screamer or two might be useful if you don't trust a fall on small pro.


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Steve Annecone
Steve Annecone   boulder
Agree with George's comment above, Matt's description does NOT match the scrappy but clean (no moss) corner just left of Smoke Down. Sep 16, 2012
I suspect that Matt's 2011 comment, above, refers to the climb that begins in the 5.8+ dihedral that Bands of Gold uses to start. I think the Bands of Gold dihedral is the start of Kor's "Right Side." (See comments under Black Widow Slab.) The route called "Wired" in this database begins farther right and is a 5.10-ish, right-leaning dihedral protected only by an occasional, funky, shallow, thin placement. Jul 27, 2012
  5.8 PG13
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.8 PG13
I climbed this route today, and it wasn't much fun. The climbing is very very dirty. We continued 3 pitches to the top of the Black Widow Slab and walked off in between Sleeping Beauty and Black Widow. The climbing is easy on the first pitch, but the gear does suck pretty bad and the moss is plentiful. Barely 1 star, more like 0.5 stars. Jul 24, 2011
It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves. Jul 5, 2008
This isn't Right Side. May 27, 2006