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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Sangdahl & Baldwin [and others]
Page Views: 1,715 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the sport climb immediately right of Pipe Dreams. According to Rolofson's guide, the oh-so-clever name of the route is a response to the ACE FHRC's rejection of the FAists' new route application at Eldo.... (Rumor has it that these same FAists were players in the late-90s ice farming controversy).

As for the route itself, I think it is among the best on the crag. If it weren't for the ledge soon after the start, it might deserve 3 stars. The crux of the route felt like the start. Get a good spot or stick-clip the first bolt, and mantle onto the route. Tricky climbing gains a rest ledge. From the rest ledge, the route becomes a sustained arete/face affair that leads to the top.

Protection

12 or so bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.11d
Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well. Jun 28, 2014
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
  5.11c
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
  5.11c
Great variety and fun moves. I felt the crux was higher. Traversing out past the chalky, sloping pillar on the final face. Took an excellent whip here! Getting out of the low dihedral at bolt 3 is easy but reach-dependent. Aug 14, 2013
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
This is a fun route with a wide variety of moves. Stick-clipping isn't necessary, but not a bad idea. If you're tall enough, you don't have to mess around with the jugs below and can get holds high and levitate your feet. Getting out of the dihedral after the second bolt is probably the crux. The dihedral can be stemmed or the dihedral's left arete laybacked. The arete/face above requires some thought. Sep 1, 2009
As for the naming of this route, [Rolofson] would like you to believe that we named it as some sort of slag about the [Eldo ACE committee (he has had his "moments" with the committee), but this is not the reason we named it "fuck you", it was a spur of the moment joking around while getting "baked" at the base of the route that one of our party uttered the phrase and it stuck. There were more people involved in the establishment of this route than [John] and myself. Jul 14, 2005