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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Horan & Pat Horan, 1996
Page Views: 3,307 total, 24/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Jun 11, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Climb the slab leading up to the left side of the steep piece of rock described below on a fun 5.9 or 5.10- slab past 5 or so bolts. Follow 5 bolts up a scoop through the middle of the steepness, making fun technical moves, until you can make a long move to the right arete of the steep face (crux). Swing around the corner and follow easier climbing past 2 more bolts to the anchors.

Location

Between Gyromancy and Specter is a steep piece of rock with three lines of bolts on it. Dracula climbs the middle of the three.

Protection

12 QDs and something for the anchor.

Photos

Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
 
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
 
Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners.

A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit. Jul 5, 2016
Dave Stewart
Boulder, CO
Dave Stewart   Boulder, CO
This is a link to a video of a couple of time lapses I took on the route.
youtu.be/090SUfyj_zs Oct 7, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice. May 6, 2014
slim

  5.12b
slim    
  5.12b
Nice! Sep 11, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Yes, my girlfriend is 5'1" and did that move completely static. She actually flashed the route fairly easy after watching me. We constantly get on routes where there is a "height" dependent move, and she always figures out a way to do it, usually with just higher feet than most people will use. I did The Juice (12d) last year with a crux I was told couldn't be done unless you're over 6' tall. I'm 5'7" and did the move really easily with some uber high feet. Power to the short people! Sep 11, 2013
slim

  5.12b
slim    
  5.12b
(Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!)

Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display.

Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no tweaky moves, so you don't need a warmup route. The first half is easy and slabby but still really nice climbing. You will want a 12" draw on the 2nd bolt on the headwall, otherwise the rope wants to grind over a fairly sharp edge as you traverse up and right. Also, don't be discouraged if you struggle on your first attempt. It would be a tricky onsight, but once you dial a couple things in, the climbing just comes together really nicely. The last couple bolts seemed like they were placed a bit higher than I wanted, but with some patience, it works out. Some of the bolts seemed kind of old. Not sure if it was the lack of washers that gave me that impression?

Anyway, do this route - it is pretty sweet. Jun 26, 2013
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
 
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
 
I really enjoyed this. My first 12b and totally safe and easy to work on. May 27, 2013
David A. Turner
  5.12b
David A. Turner  
  5.12b
5.9 slab, to 5.11 cross through gastons, to cryptic crux, to slightly insecure, 10+, hanging arete. Well-protected. Super fun. Sep 30, 2011