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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.415 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 18,896 total, 109/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 26, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Black Widow Slab is the large rock located just right (west) of Vampire Rock, 8.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. A number of good sport climbs can be found on the clean north face and several ice climbs form on the northeast face during good (wet) winter months. This is a good spot to escape the summer heat and enjoy some quality climbing in a beautiful setting.

L->R:

A. Left Side?
B. Kate Moss, 10, 1p, 125', bolts.
C. Consilience, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.
D. Center, 10-, 3p, gear.
E. Gyromancy, 11- PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts.
F. Unknown ?Kor Route, 10+, 70'?, 1p?, TR (or gear & pin).
G1. Mordred, 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.
G2. Dracula, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Unknown, 1p, bolts.
I. Black Widow Recess, 9+, 1p, 80', gear.
J1. The Spectre, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.
J2. SMERSH, 11, 1p, gear.
K. Resonator, 12+/13-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
L. Right Side? aka Bong Session, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
M. Pipe Dreams, 12, 2p, 100', bolts.
N. F*** You!, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.
O1. Bands of Gold, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
O2. Right Side, 9-, 3p, gear.
P. Wired, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.
Q. Smoke Down, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.
R. The Fire Down Below, 10+, 1p, gear.
S. The Far Right, 8+, gear.
T? Caught In The Web, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Drive 8.7 miles up Boulder Canyon and park in a large pullout on the left across the road from the Boulderado. Head down stream for a couple hundred yards and ford the creek. Hike up a gully and reach a good trail that goes along the base of the rock.

Tyrol

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Widow Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kate Moss
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gyromancy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Consilience
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
F**k You
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pipe Dreams
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dracula
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Resonator
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Mordred
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kate Moss 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gyromancy 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Specter 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Consilience 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
F**k You 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pipe Dreams 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dracula 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Resonator 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Mordred 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Widow Slab »

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Photos

According to High Over Boulder, "Left Side" (FA: Kor and Bleser, 1961) may follow the line in D'Antonio's guide, left of Kate Moss. It looks pretty scruffy, but there is a potential route. Nov 2, 2013
Today, I toproped the mossy line between Kate Moss and Consilience, using the KM anchors. (One could continue the line upwards on lead, rather than move left to the KM anchors.) It felt like 5.10, although a taller person may find it easier -- or resort to aid in places -- or do some cleaning. I saw only rare opportunities for pro, although you may be able to find placements if you excavate a little of the moss. I did come across an old, rusty ring piton (which seemed solid) at about 80 or 90 feet.

Judicious cleaning has made Kor's Center Route, which climbs past the dead tree between Consilience and Gyromancy, and which sports three rusty fixed pins, enjoyable and protectable. Aug 27, 2012
The route list on this page, above, stirs up the murk already surrounding the locations of Kor's three routes on this rock. I don't know where he climbed, but I think that logic supports that "Center" is to the left of "Right Side." And I think that what this list calls "Center" is really "Right Side."

I have climbed (9/23/74) what I believe is "Right Side," all the way to the top. It is an obvious line (5.8 or 5.9) and is what D'Antonio calls "Wired." It begins in the dihedral shared with "Bands of Gold," which contrives to climb the left wall of the dihedral. And it seems to fit with Ament's and Erickson's vague descriptions of "Right Side."

What D'Antonio calls "Right Side" is what Rolofson calls "Wired." This pitch is an unlikely choice for "Right Side." It is relatively inobvious, is hard-to-protect 5.10, and ends at anchors shared with "Smoke Down" (although, yes, you could keep going up).

I have climbed "Bong Session," which ends at bolted anchors at the top of a clean crack. While it may be possible to continue free to the top, there is a less-obvious line above the anchors. I'm not suggesting that Kor would only follow obvious lines. Given my above arguments, however, I'm curious about why Chris Archer thinks "Bong Session" is Kor's "Right Side." Even though bongs (thick pitons) could be useful, I don't think those had been invented by 1961 (just kidding). (See thread on Bong Session.)

Anyway, the use of the name "Center" in the list on this page acknowledges that the first route right of "Bands of Gold" could be one of Kor's three routes. Apr 4, 2012
We replaced the tyrol tonight (thanks for the help Kevin V.!). The old rope junk-show of an anchor with its multiple core-shots from rubbing on the rock has been upgraded with chain to help it last a bit longer.

There are two strands of static that should keep you well out of the creek. The rope was donated by fellow MP'ers. Thanks, everyone!

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow. Jun 10, 2011
I believe the route left (the arete?) is Mordred, .14a, FA: Gomez aka Luke Parady, Winter '09. Sep 11, 2010
While you're at it, what about the one to the left of Dracula? Sep 26, 2008
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Does anyone know what the sport route is that is just right of Dracula? It doesn't appear to be documented anywhere? I believe it's a Steve Damboise route? Bolted a couple years ago? Aug 8, 2008

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