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Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.9966, -105.4147
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 26, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Black Widow Slab is the large rock located just right (west) of Vampire Rock, 8.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. A number of good sport climbs can be found on the clean north face and several ice climbs form on the northeast face during good (wet) winter months. This is a good spot to escape the summer heat and enjoy some quality climbing in a beautiful setting.

L->R:

A. Left Side?

B. Kate Moss, 10, 1p, 125', bolts.

C. Consilience, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.

D. Center, 10-, 3p, gear.

E. Gyromancy, 11- PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts.

F. Unknown ?Kor Route, 10+, 70'?, 1p?, TR (or gear & pin).

G1. Mordred, 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.

G2. Dracula, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

H. Count Chocula, 13-, 1p, bolts.

IG2. Franken Berry, 13, 1p, 70', bolts.

J. Black Widow Recess, 9+, 1p, 80', gear.

K1. The Spectre, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.

K2. SMERSH, 11, 1p, gear.

L. Resonator, 12+/13-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.

M. Right Side? aka Bong Session, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.

N1. Pipe Dreams, 12, 2p, 100', bolts.

N2. Pipeline, 9, 1p, 45', gear.

O. F*** You!, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.

P1. Bands of Gold, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.

P2. Right Side, 9-, 3p, gear.

Q. Wired, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.

R. Smoke Down, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.

S. The Fire Down Below, 10+, 1p, gear.

T. The Far Right, 8+, gear.

U? Caught In The Web, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive 8.7 miles up Boulder Canyon and park in a large pullout on the left across the road from the Boulderado. Head down stream for a couple hundred yards and ford the creek. Hike up a gully and reach a good trail that goes along the base of the rock.

Tyrol

Suggest change
Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Widow Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 242
Kate Moss
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Right Side? aka Bong Session
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 161
Gyromancy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
Smoke Down
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 24
Specter
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
SMERSH
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 187
Consilience
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 77
F**k You
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 29
Pipe Dreams
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 123
Dracula
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 15
Resonator
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 18
Mordred
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kate Moss
 242
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Right Side? aka Bong Session
 28
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gyromancy
 161
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Smoke Down
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Specter
 24
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
SMERSH
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Consilience
 187
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
F**k You
 77
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pipe Dreams
 29
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dracula
 123
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Resonator
 15
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mordred
 18
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Black Widow Slab »

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