Elevation: 7,400 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.415 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,603 total · 194/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 26, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

Black Widow Slab is the large rock located just right (west) of Vampire Rock, 8.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. A number of good sport climbs can be found on the clean north face and several ice climbs form on the northeast face during good (wet) winter months. This is a good spot to escape the summer heat and enjoy some quality climbing in a beautiful setting.

L->R:

A. Left Side?

B. Kate Moss, 10, 1p, 125', bolts.

C. Consilience, 11, 1p, 110', bolts.

D. Center, 10-, 3p, gear.

E. Gyromancy, 11- PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts.

F. Unknown ?Kor Route, 10+, 70'?, 1p?, TR (or gear & pin).

G1. Mordred, 14-, 1p, 100', bolts.

G2. Dracula, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.

H. Count Chocula, 13-, 1p, bolts.

I. Black Widow Recess, 9+, 1p, 80', gear.

J1. The Spectre, 10+, 1p, 80', gear.

J2. SMERSH, 11, 1p, gear.

K. Resonator, 12+/13-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.

L. Right Side? aka Bong Session, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.

M1. Pipe Dreams, 12, 2p, 100', bolts.

M2. Pipeline, 9, 1p, 45', gear.

N. F*** You!, 11, 1p, 80', bolts.

O1. Bands of Gold, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts.

O2. Right Side, 9-, 3p, gear.

P. Wired, 10-, 1p, 70', gear.

Q. Smoke Down, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts.

R. The Fire Down Below, 10+, 1p, gear.

S. The Far Right, 8+, gear.

T? Caught In The Web, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.

Getting There

Drive 8.7 miles up Boulder Canyon and park in a large pullout on the left across the road from the Boulderado. Head down stream for a couple hundred yards and ford the creek. Hike up a gully and reach a good trail that goes along the base of the rock.

Tyrol

Since the area description above doesn't mention it, the tyrol for Black Widow is actually a little downstream, directly below the Vampire. Angle up and right across the scree field to get to the routes at Black Widow.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Black Widow Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 194
Kate Moss
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 139
Gyromancy
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Specter
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 153
Consilience
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 68
F**k You
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 26
Pipe Dreams
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 93
Dracula
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
Resonator
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 16
Mordred
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Kate Moss
 194
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Gyromancy
 139
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Specter
 20
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Consilience
 153
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
F**k You
 68
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pipe Dreams
 26
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dracula
 93
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Resonator
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Mordred
 16
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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