Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 2,293 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Aug 27, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


99 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route start 15 feet right of "Consilience" and climbs an obvious blunt-arete to a two bolt anchor. The route climbs a lot better than it looks from the ground with a couple of hard moves on the arete. Cool moves up the arete to the crux near the fourth bolt. Reach a good two-finger pocket and one last hard move gets you to the anchor. Good route from the hard-working Mr. Kodas.

Protection

Six clips will get you to a two-bolt andchor

Photos

Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket.

This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination? Sep 1, 2003
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
An excellent pitch. Fun moves, clean rock. Sustained, thoughtful climbing from the fourth bolt to the top. The two-finger pocket is really good!Would be a three-star route if it were twice as long. Jul 17, 2004
Young Doug...I led this route, and my partner Kevin led its neighbor to the left. Both of us agree that this route was a full number-grade easier. We also both agree that this route was not as hard as Super Slab. Mmmm. Sep 23, 2005
Along with Consilience and Kate Moss this climb rounds out a great trio of routes here. One can also rap from the top of Consilience to the anchors on Gyromancy and turn the 70 meter rap into 2 35 meter raps. Sep 28, 2008
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Decent climbing, but I spent more time trying to figure out how to clip the 5th bolt from a decent stance than climbing the rest of the route. Pay attention well in advance, or you can get a little bit hung out to dry (like me). Sep 19, 2012