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Routes in Black Widow Slab

Bands of Gold S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Black Widow Recess T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Caught in the Web S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Consilience S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dracula S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
F**k You S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Far Right, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Down Below, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gyromancy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kate Moss S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mordred S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pipe Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resonator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Right Side T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SMERSH T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Smoke Down S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Specter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wired T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Layton Kor & Ray Northcutt, 1961?
Page Views: 271 total, 2/month
Shared By: Steve Annecone on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Bong Session goes out the roof and up the big crack located just right of the Resinator, and just left of Pipe Dreams. This route is far more interesting than it looks. I suspect this name is what started the trend of naming the other routes with a similar topic, although it's quite possible that the first ascentionist was referring to the use of 3 to 4-inch piton "bongs"? Any Boulder old-timers care to comment on the history here?

The business starts immediately upon arriving under the roof. Good pro is available just under the roof, and a very good medium nut can be placed over your head before committing to the next moves. Use long enough slings to avoid rope drag higher up.

Move out on good jugs through very steep terrain, then power up to a good jam behind a flake. Continue battling up the crack another move or two to a decent stance. Very powerful and lungy, I felt a 10c rating was more accurate than the 10a listed in the guidebooks. From there, follow a clean hand crack up to the base of a very wide crack, then move sharply right along a ramp, and head up a beautiful and near vertical wide hands crack. After the crux, nothing was harder than 5.9. Go to the two bolt anchor and rap. Very nice route if you like cracks.

Protection

A few medium nuts and small cams (Aliens) for the crux roof near the start, then some medium to larger cams including doubles in the hand size through #4 Friends. One #4 Camalot may also be useful.

Photos

Rob Meringolo
Denver, CO
 
Rob Meringolo   Denver, CO
 
Thug through the roof at the start and cruise to the top, roof protects well with green c3 (under) and red c3 (after). Jul 26, 2014
All,

I'm wondering what the variation is called? One can either head up the ramp and do the (easier) hand crack, or continue straight up into the offwidth. Anyone know the story?

Goat Aug 29, 2013
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.10
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.10
This is a worthy route. Big fun and just kinda in your face most of the way. Well worth doing, especailly as a Kor Classic (which I think it is??)! Sep 17, 2012
I doubt that "Bong Session" is the same route as Kor's "Right Side." (See thread under Black Widow Slab.) None of those old guidebooks is very specific about where "Right Side" really went, although I think those support that "Right Side" starts in the same dihedral where Bands of Gold begins. Chris: What is your evidence? Apr 5, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
This really is a great crack with a variety of sizes throughout. Save a #4 for the upper crack and don't underestimate the start! Jul 8, 2011
Tim Fleming
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tim Fleming   Boulder, CO
  5.10
This is a terrific crack climb - maybe one of the best in the canyon. The shift to the right for the top hand crack detracts slightly from the route but otherwise, it's well worth the trip to this wall, not to mention the other nice sport routes to add in. Aug 10, 2007
Chris Archer
  5.10a
Chris Archer  
  5.10a
For decades this route was known as the Right Side. It was first climbed in 1961 by Kor and Northcutt. It was part of the Black Widow trilogy: Left Side, Center and Right Side. It has been documented as such since 1967 in all of Pat Ament's BC guides and Jim Erickson's classic Rocky Heights. It was graded 5.8 in the first High Over Boulder (1967) and stayed there through the second HOB and through 5.10, the Ament Erickson guide. It was upgraded to 5.9 in Rocky Heights (1980). The name change was initiated in the mid - late '90s, apparently to make it consistent with the stoner theme adopted at the crag. It seems kind of a shame to rename one of the first routes in Boulder Canyon. Hopefully the original name will see a resurgence. May 27, 2006