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Routes in Table Mountain

"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dick to the Rescue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Genevieve T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Merlin’s Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
Page Views: 101 total · 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Holy Grail 5.6-5.7 ( 5.4 -5.5 R/X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982 - Once was 5.7X due to a rusty, partially-driven, “spinning”, 30+ year old, ¼” bolt at the crux 100 feet up and 40 ft above the 1st bolt; a new 3/8" SS bolt now protects this crux, eliminating the “X” from the 5.7. There is no sign of the “double bolt anchor” mentioned in Webster, but the upper ¼” bolt still has its epoxy residue!

P1 – Climb up to the right-leaning flake (cam protection possible), step over and then directly up on the clean, orange-ish rock on good, “crisp” holds and continue up 50-60 feet (5.4-5.5 R/X) to the first bolt, a 3/8" SS now replaces the old ¼” relic. The route climbs directly up [see NOTE] to the 2nd bolt [crux 5.6-5.7], a new 3/8” SS bolt, with the old ¼” left in place for historical reasons. Above the crux section, trend slightly right-ish up the steeper-but-easier rock above, ending at a clump of small maple trees set with an anchor. 180 ft 5.6-5.7, (5.4-5.5 R/X)

NOTE- about 6 ft above, and 6 ft right of Bolt#1 a flake can be threaded to take a downward pull, but the flake may be too 'creaky' for a cam placement.

P2 - Rap with 2 ropes or finish easily on the upper slabs.

Location

START – About 15-20 ft left of "False" Holy Smoke. There is a shallow right-facing flake, that leans right, about 15-20 feet off the ground. Climb up to the flake, step over it and directly up the orange-red rock. The first bolt is NOT visible from the ground, but if you step away from the cliff you can see a 2-3ft flake about 50 ft up, the 1st bolt is 6 ft below that (and, the flake itself is threadable.) This seems the most 'direct' start.

ALTERNATE - It is also possible the FA party climbed up to the "bulge" mentioned in "The Old Smokeys' Return" and climbed over the LEFT side of this and moved a bit left to gain the like leading directly up to the 1st bolt. These moves (left over the bulge) are more difficult and unprotected. Maybe(?) 5.6 R/X or so.

Protection

Medium cam down low, one 1/4" bolt (bring a 'Screamer'), natural thread (best done with 8 or 9 mm cord UNTIED to thread), new 3/8" bolt. The Cluster of maple trees has solid anchor.

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