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Routes in Table Mountain

"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dick to the Rescue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Genevieve T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Merlin’s Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013
Page Views: 62 total, 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Merlin’s Wand 5.8- G / ( 5.4-5.5R ) F.A. R. Hall and S. Matz spring 2013

Slightly thinner than its neighbor, Merlin.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.4-5.5R until the first bolt),(bolts near the cruxes). Above the 2nd bolt continue straight up keeping 6 to 10 feet left of Merlin. Continue, passing a 3rd 3/8" bolt to the Merlin belay. 115-120ft 5.8- ( The Merlin belay/rap station is two new 3/8” bolts) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the Merlin Chain anchor with a single, full-length 60m, or double 50m; or....

P2 – ...Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.

Location

START- Look for the 2 new 3/8” SS bolts about 25-30 ft right of the "False" Holy Smoke flake and 6-8 feet left of the BLACK 3/8" 1st bolt of Merlin. (Only the 1st Merlin bolt is visible.) Belay on the “path” in the trees about 20-25ft the right of the climb. Traverse in on the 2” ledge until directly below the two, new 3/8” bolts.

Protection

3 short draws, Optional: one long (6 ft) sling to also clip the 2nd bolt of Merlin. Use the Merlin anchor/rap.

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