Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Table Mountain
Holy Grail 5.6-5.7 ( 5.4 -5.5 R/X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982 - Once was 5.7X due to a rusty, partially-driven, spinning, 30+ year old, ¼ bolt at the crux 100 feet up and 40 ft above the 1st bolt; a new 3/8" SS bolt now protects this crux, eliminating the X from the 5.7. There is no sign of the double bolt anchor mentioned in Webster, but the upper ¼ bolt still has its epoxy residue!
P1 Climb up to the right-leaning flake (cam protection possible), step over and then directly up on the clean, orange-ish rock on good, crisp holds and continue up 50-60 feet (5.4-5.5 R/X) to the first bolt, a 3/8" SS now replaces the old ¼ relic. The route climbs directly up [see NOTE] to the 2nd bolt [crux 5.6-5.7], a new 3/8 SS bolt, with the old ¼ left in place for historical reasons. Above the crux section, trend slightly right-ish up the steeper-but-easier rock above, ending at a clump of small maple trees set with an anchor. 180 ft 5.6-5.7, (5.4-5.5 R/X)
NOTE- about 6 ft above, and 6 ft right of Bolt#1 a flake can be threaded to take a downward pull, but the flake may be too 'creaky' for a cam placement.
P2 - Rap with 2 ropes or finish easily on the upper slabs.
START About 15-20 ft left of "False" Holy Smoke. There is a shallow right-facing flake, that leans right, about 15-20 feet off the ground. Climb up to the flake, step over it and directly up the orange-red rock. The first bolt is NOT visible from the ground, but if you step away from the cliff you can see a 2-3ft flake about 50 ft up, the 1st bolt is 6 ft below that (and, the flake itself is threadable.) This seems the most 'direct' start.
ALTERNATE - It is also possible the FA party climbed up to the "bulge" mentioned in "The Old Smokeys' Return" and climbed over the LEFT side of this and moved a bit left to gain the like leading directly up to the 1st bolt. These moves (left over the bulge) are more difficult and unprotected. Maybe(?) 5.6 R/X or so.
Medium cam down low, one 1/4" bolt (bring a 'Screamer'), natural thread (best done with 8 or 9 mm cord UNTIED to thread), new 3/8" bolt. The Cluster of maple trees has solid anchor.
Holy Grail - Possibly the FA start stepped over the rising flake. The 1st Bolt is about 50 ft up and can't be seen.