Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Kurt Winkler and Bunny Goodspeed July, 1989
Page Views: 465 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Genevieve (P1 is 5.5 R and 5.3-5.4 R/X) FA by Kurt Winkler and Bunny “No Bolts Please!” Goodspeed July, 1989.

As with Sir Bors Dream, if you would like to lead this climb and feel the need to place a bolt, please respect the wishes of the first ascent party and refrain from doing so. The climb may be led safely by running a static line from the Table Scraps double bolt anchor through appropriate directional anchors and clipping into loop(s) placed where one might want a bolt.

P1 – Clean climbing on golden rock (5.6 R) exists near both the right and left edges of the wide streak, the middle may be a bit harder. [Can be TR'd from the Table Scraps anchor with directional(s).] Continue [per Webster] “up to a hollow flake”. The FA party belayed “left of a tree clump. 135 ft 5.6R / 5.3-5.4 R/X

If you only want to do the first pitch, after about 90 feet move right to a pine tree-and-beech tree combo and belay here. Establish a rap anchor and rap (95 ft) to the ground. ”

P2 – The FA party climbed [Webster] “up left of the trees following the same gold streak to an overlap with horizontal cracks. Pass the overlap on the left (5.5) or on the right (5.8R) to another hollow flake belay. 100 ft 5.5 or 5.8R [Note the word “another”, which might imply the FA party’'s first belay was at the “hollow flake” mentioned in P1 ???]

P3 "Scramble to the top".


START- Genevieve, or rather the Genevieres, climb the beautiful, 20-foot-wide, golden streak of rock. Webster gives the opening moves an “X”, yet the “neckyness” is identical to opening of “Sir Bors” (although a grade easier than Bors 5.7.) to which he gives an “R”. Oh well, no one said guidebooks had to be consistent, did they?! Again, FA by Kurt Winkler and Bunny Goodspeed July, 1989.


No bolts, std rack. P1 can be TR'd from Table Scraps belay anchor with appropriate directionals


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