The Old Smokey's Return
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||ACB/FA? R. Hall, Doug Burnell, Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013|
|Page Views:||438 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Oct 28, 2013|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe Old Smokeys Return 5.4 G / PG-13 ?F?A? / As Climbed By / R. Hall, Doug Burnell and Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013
START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of a bulge-corner about 20-25 ft above the ground. SEE PHOTO. GEAR: A Medium-large (black strap) Tricam eliminates the "X-Factor", as does a #3 (blue) Camalot. Also needed is a Gold (#2) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.
P1 Climb to the right side of the bulge (hole for a black Tricam) then climb up 15-20 ft to a hole (Gold #2 Camalot), continue straight up, passing a 3/8 bolt after 20ft, then another 25ft ft to a larger hole (#3 Camalot). This hole is 6 feet below a right-facing "half-moon" flake (which is useless for pro.) Then up on brushed, white-ish rock passing a 2nd bolt and continue to an obvious left-facing flake. (#1, # 1.5 Cams) Up this and then move 25 ft left to the Holy Grail belay [Alt] at the maple tree clump. 165+ft, 5.4
[Alt- Move right to the False Holy Smoke belay. ]
Rap with two ropes, or traverse to the Merlin anchor to rap with one 70 (62) meter rope, or...
P2 - The easiest, most well protected exit from the slab. From the "maple tree clump belay" move easily right and up to the overlap. Over this a foot or two left of a bush (at a bolt, same place as False Holy Smoke). Instead of straight up as for False Holy Smoke, move diagonally up and right to a curving flake (small gear possible). Step over at brushed footholds about half-way up the flake and climb the slab to a fixed 2-inch aluminum "bong" piton. Walk 15(+/-) ft right along the horizontal ledge, then easily straight up to the overlap. Surmount this about 5 ft left of its right end at a sort of "step" with a bolt above. ("crux" 5.4-5.5) Continue 10 ft to the Upper Merlin Rap station. 90-100 ft 5.4-5.5
To get back to the "Bugs" rap station and the hiking trail, take the climber's path that starts a few feet above the rap station.