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Routes in Table Mountain

"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dick to the Rescue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Genevieve T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Merlin’s Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ACB/FA? R. Hall, Doug Burnell, Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013
Page Views: 472 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 28, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The Old Smokey’s Return 5.4 G / PG-13 ?F?A? / As Climbed By / R. Hall, Doug Burnell and Doug Teschner, Oct 25, 2013

START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of a bulge-corner about 20-25 ft above the ground. SEE PHOTO. GEAR: A Medium-large (black strap) Tricam eliminates the "X-Factor", as does a #3 (blue) Camalot. Also needed is a Gold (#2) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.

P1 – Climb to the right side of the bulge (hole for a “black Tricam”) then climb up 15-20 ft to a hole (Gold #2 Camalot), continue straight up, passing a 3/8 bolt after 20ft, then another 25ft ft to a larger hole (#3 Camalot). This hole is 6 feet below a right-facing "half-moon" flake (which is useless for pro.) Then up on brushed, white-ish rock passing a 2nd bolt and continue to an obvious left-facing flake. (#1, # 1.5 Cams) Up this and then move 25 ft left to the Holy Grail belay [Alt] at the maple tree clump. 165+ft, 5.4
[Alt- Move right to the False Holy Smoke belay. ]

Rap with two ropes, or traverse to the Merlin anchor to rap with one 70 (62) meter rope, or...

P2 - The easiest, most well protected exit from the slab. From the "maple tree clump belay" move easily right and up to the overlap. Over this a foot or two left of a bush (at a bolt, same place as False Holy Smoke). Instead of straight up as for False Holy Smoke, move diagonally up and right to a curving flake (small gear possible). Step over at brushed footholds about half-way up the flake and climb the slab to a fixed 2-inch aluminum "bong" piton. Walk 15(+/-) ft right along the horizontal ledge, then easily straight up to the overlap. Surmount this about 5 ft left of its right end at a sort of "step" with a bolt above. ("crux" 5.4-5.5) Continue 10 ft to the Upper Merlin Rap station. 90-100 ft 5.4-5.5
To get back to the "Bugs" rap station and the hiking trail, take the climber's path that starts a few feet above the rap station.

Location

See Photo. The "bulge-corner" is about 15 ft below the climber. START - About 10 ft left of the False Holy Smoke belay tree, directly below the right side of an indistinct bulge-corner about 20-25 ft above the ground.

Protection

GEAR: Medium (black strap) Tricam, Gold Camalot (#2), Blue (#3) Camalot, Green (#1) and an optional Red (# 1.5) Camalot.

Photos

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