Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P1 D. Burnell& D. Teschner Oct, 1993 / P2 Dick and Karen Traverse Aug, 1995
Page Views: 91 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


The bolts at the two belays and, at least at the top overlap, are relatively new 5/16 inch bolts.

Real Holy Smoke / Table Scraps:
P1 – Climb up the steps and holes with more chances for protection than it seems from below [a Green and a Yellow Alien are useful], to well-featured rock and two bolt anchor 6-7feet above a large flake, which is just above a nice stance. 100-110 ft 5.3 - 5.4 [ Pitch 1 was first climbed as part of Holy Smoke by D. Burnell and D. Teschner in 1993.]

P2 – P2 was climbed by Dick & Karen Traverse in 1995 – Webster again: “Head straight for the main overlaps, climb the first [overlap] at a (bolt) and pass the 2nd (use a #2 Friend) and the 3rd at a bolt. To a double bolt anchor [Confirmed 2013] above a narrow ledge." 80 ft 5.9
P3 – [per Webster] Move up, trending right (bolt) to the trees. 90 ft 5.7

The Real Holy Smoke [the bolded italic text is the easiest way up the cliff, but not necessarily the safest. See "False Holy Smoke, P1" and P2 of "The Old Smokies Return".]
P1 - Climb P1 as described above (5.3-5.4)
P2 - Climb up to the huge overlap and traverse along its base [Var] to where the "Picnic Table" dike intercepts the overlap. Belay on gear (#1 and/or #2 Camalot(s) 100 ft 5.4 (Traversing just underneath the overlap is less "protectable" than one would think.]
P3 - Climb through the overlap at the dike, continue up the dike until one can break right to the rap tree anchor at the top. 110-130 ft 5.4 with some 5.2-5.3 R/X [This would later become the last pitch of "Picnic Table"]

P2 Variation – From the 1st belay move diagonally right* on easy rock passing one bolt along the way (5.2 PG-13/R ) Belay (on gear) at the right end of the overhang where the Picnic Table dike intercepts the overlap. 80-90 ft 5.2
P2 and P3 can be combined with a 70M rope. (maybe with a 60M also??)Italic Text


START - NOTE-I've switched to describing as LEFT of "Bugs"...About 40 feet LEFT of Bugs, and 15 feet LEFT of the “lonely bolt” of City of Lost Children, will be found a series of steps, and above these some “holes”, one of which (in 2013) had shrubs and bushes in them.


Std Rack, a Green and a Yellow Alien or similar useful, as is a long sling for the belay.