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Routes in Table Mountain

"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dick to the Rescue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Genevieve T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Merlin’s Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt Winkler and Bunny Goodspeed July, 1989
Page Views: 56 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Sir Bors Dream 5.7(+) R / X? FA by Kurt Winkler and Bunny “No Bolts Please!” Goodspeed July, 1989.

START - At an 8-10ft wide, white-gold streak of rock, between two areas of lichened rock, and about 20-25 feet right of Merlin and a few feet right of Percival's Quest. Bring a good spotter, or better a couple of mattresses!!

If you would like to lead this climb and feel the need to place a bolt, please respect the wishes of the first ascent party and refrain from doing so. P1 of this climb may be top roped safely by running a directional from the P1 belay bolts of Percival's Quest with a slight directional at the placement 40-50ft up.

P1 – Climb the left side of the white streak without protection ( 5.7 R or X depending on how you feel about a ground-fall from 20+ feet) and continue up easily. FORGET the small flake on the right at 25-30ft NO PRO THERE, but don't miss the small, horizontal flake about 40-45 feet up, which will probably be at your feet before you see it! (Yellow Alien-sized cam or Tricam.) Continue up and slightly right to belay at a small pine tree with an interesting burl in its root system. 150ft 5.7 R/X.

P2 (2013) Step right and up, passing to the left of a large pine tree (with very old rap anchor, K. Winkler stated this was the probably end of the climb on the first ascent). Diagonally up the slab [5.7+ to 5.8] (v. small and large [black webbed] tri-cams very useful, as is a wire brush) to the small overlap; step over this [5.6-5.7] and up to the trees above. 100ft 5.7+ to 5.8

Location

START - At a white streak of rock, between two areas of lichened rock, and about 20-25 feet right of Merlin (i.e. a few feet right of Merlin’s belay. Bring a good spotter, or better a couple of mattresses!!

Protection

R/X what can we say? See description for P1. On the "2013 P2", have a med to large TriCam ! plus some small wires and a usual rack of 0.5 , 0.75, #1 Camalor-sized cams.

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