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Routes in Table Mountain

"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dick to the Rescue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Genevieve T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Merlin’s Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

After spending several hours in the neighborhood of where this climb should be I have concluded: A) The climb has virtually NO PROTECTION and is a total run-out once above a placement about 15-20 ft off the ground, and B) The “nut belay at a flake” [Webster] is probably the flake 165 (+/- ?)ft up, and 35 feet left of the maple-tree-cluster at the top of pitch1 of Holy Grail. C) I once considered the possibility that “Knights” and “Holy Grail” were one-and-the same climb, but this is refuted by the fact that Webster lists both climbs as having FA’s by the same people, so they should know.

Here is a line which is probably as good as any, add a star or two if you a really "into" 5.7 "X" routes:

P1 – See LOCATION/START - Climb over the curving "flake / overlap" and continue up the orange rock above. No protection. A significant ledge is encountered about 100-120 feet up, but there's no good pro here, although a tipped out cam might go in. Continue up 25-30 feet to a low-angled flake-corner and belay. 165ft( +/-) 5.5 X This flake-corner is about 30-35ft left of the clump of small maple trees that is the belay & rap anchor for Holy Grail.

"ALTERNATE" (Possibly the line of FA, but 5.6-5.7R/X) Start as for Holy Grail, but then move further left into distinctly orange-colored rock and then up, reaching the same ledge at 100-120ft as described above. 5.6 R/X – 5.7 R/X

P2 – Climb the flake-corner, then the slab, heading diagonally right to the trees. You might encounter the top (of 2) new 3/8" bolts on this 'upper slab'. (see "False Holy Smoke", P2 )

Location

At far left of slab, as good a place as any is to START – About 30-35 ft left of "False" Holy Smoke (see Photo) below at a small curving "flake/overlap" 10-15ft off the ground. This is about 10-15 ft left of the start of Holy Grail.

Protection

Essentially ZERO after the opening moves.

Photos

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