Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
Page Views: 68 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

After spending several hours in the neighborhood of where this climb should be I have concluded: A) The climb has virtually NO PROTECTION and is a total run-out once above a placement about 15-20 ft off the ground, and B) The “nut belay at a flake” [Webster] is probably the flake 165 (+/- ?)ft up, and 35 feet left of the maple-tree-cluster at the top of pitch1 of Holy Grail. C) I once considered the possibility that “Knights” and “Holy Grail” were one-and-the same climb, but this is refuted by the fact that Webster lists both climbs as having FA’s by the same people, so they should know.

Here is a line which is probably as good as any, add a star or two if you a really "into" 5.7 "X" routes:

P1 – See LOCATION/START - Climb over the curving "flake / overlap" and continue up the orange rock above. No protection. A significant ledge is encountered about 100-120 feet up, but there's no good pro here, although a tipped out cam might go in. Continue up 25-30 feet to a low-angled flake-corner and belay. 165ft( +/-) 5.5 X This flake-corner is about 30-35ft left of the clump of small maple trees that is the belay & rap anchor for Holy Grail.

"ALTERNATE" (Possibly the line of FA, but 5.6-5.7R/X) Start as for Holy Grail, but then move further left into distinctly orange-colored rock and then up, reaching the same ledge at 100-120ft as described above. 5.6 R/X – 5.7 R/X

P2 – Climb the flake-corner, then the slab, heading diagonally right to the trees. You might encounter the top (of 2) new 3/8" bolts on this 'upper slab'. (see "False Holy Smoke", P2 )

Location

At far left of slab, as good a place as any is to START – About 30-35 ft left of "False" Holy Smoke (see Photo) below at a small curving "flake/overlap" 10-15ft off the ground. This is about 10-15 ft left of the start of Holy Grail.

Protection

Essentially ZERO after the opening moves.

Photos

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