Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Table Mountain

"False" Holy Smoke T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bugs Eat Frogs T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Cader Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
City of Lost Children T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dick to the Rescue T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Genevieve T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hornet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King Arthur's Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knights in White Satin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Merlin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Merlin’s Wand T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Noble Gesture T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Old Smokey's Return, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Percival's Quest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Picnic Table T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Siege (“Seat”) Perilous T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Sir Bors Dream T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sir Hector's Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Table Talk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
Page Views: 87 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Merlin 5.7+ to 5.8- ( 5.5R and 5.3-5.4X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982

Webster states “this is the most popular climb on the cliff”, and now with the replacement of the 30+ year old bolts with 3/8" I'd have to agree. Look for a BLACK 3/8" bolt about 25 ft up, and about a foot left of the black-lichen-water streak.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.5 R) and clip the first bolt. A sequence of moves above the bolt probably “totals” to 5.7+. Continuing up the climb eases ( a bit run-out to the 2nd bolt). Continue, run-out, to the belay, although if one looks left and clips the 3rd bolt on "Merlin's Wand" with a long sling, I'd doubt your belayer would complain. 115 feet, 5.7+ / 5.8- ( 5.5R and 5.3X) Anchor has two new 3/8” bolts.) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the chains with a single, full length 60m, or double 50m ropes. or.....

P2 – ....Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.

Location

START – (See photo in Merlin's Wand description) Belay on the “Path” and traverse in 15-20ft on the 2” ledge until directly below the first black bolt. [Alternate start, probably the FA start: at the low-point of the ground about 30 feet below the first bolt.]

Protection

Couple of draws; long sling if clipping the 3rd bolt on Merlin's Wand is in the program.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Merlin

Printer-Friendly