Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982 |
Page Views: | 724 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Merlin 5.7+ to 5.8- G/PG ( 5.5R and 5.3-5.4X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
Webster states this is the most popular climb on the cliff, and now with the replacement of the 30+ year old bolts with 3/8" I'd have to agree. Look for a BLACK 3/8" bolt about 25 ft up, and about a foot left of the black-lichen-water streak.
P1 Climb directly up (5.5 R) and clip the first bolt. A sequence of moves above the bolt probably totals to 5.7+. Continuing up, the climb eases ( a bit run-out to the 2nd bolt). Continue, run-out, to the belay, although if one looks left and clips the 3rd bolt on "Merlin's Wand" with a long sling, I'd doubt your belayer would complain. 115 feet, 5.7+ / 5.8- ( 5.5R ) Anchor has two new 3/8 bolts.) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !
Rap from the chains with a single, full length 60m, or double 50m ropes. or.....
P2 ....Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.
Webster states this is the most popular climb on the cliff, and now with the replacement of the 30+ year old bolts with 3/8" I'd have to agree. Look for a BLACK 3/8" bolt about 25 ft up, and about a foot left of the black-lichen-water streak.
P1 Climb directly up (5.5 R) and clip the first bolt. A sequence of moves above the bolt probably totals to 5.7+. Continuing up, the climb eases ( a bit run-out to the 2nd bolt). Continue, run-out, to the belay, although if one looks left and clips the 3rd bolt on "Merlin's Wand" with a long sling, I'd doubt your belayer would complain. 115 feet, 5.7+ / 5.8- ( 5.5R ) Anchor has two new 3/8 bolts.) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !
Rap from the chains with a single, full length 60m, or double 50m ropes. or.....
P2 ....Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.
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