Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982
Page Views: 724 total · 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

Merlin 5.7+ to 5.8- G/PG ( 5.5R and 5.3-5.4X) FA Matt Peer and Mark Hanson 1982

Webster states “this is the most popular climb on the cliff”, and now with the replacement of the 30+ year old bolts with 3/8" I'd have to agree. Look for a BLACK 3/8" bolt about 25 ft up, and about a foot left of the black-lichen-water streak.

P1 – Climb directly up (5.5 R) and clip the first bolt. A sequence of moves above the bolt probably “totals” to 5.7+. Continuing up, the climb eases ( a bit run-out to the 2nd bolt). Continue, run-out, to the belay, although if one looks left and clips the 3rd bolt on "Merlin's Wand" with a long sling, I'd doubt your belayer would complain. 115 feet, 5.7+ / 5.8- ( 5.5R )  Anchor has two new 3/8” bolts.) BEWARE THE HOLLOW FLAKE ABOVE and LEFT of the ANCHOR: NO CAMS !

Rap from the chains with a single, full length 60m, or double 50m ropes. or.....

P2 – ....Continue up in any number of ways, best is probably the pitch2 described for "False" Holy Smoke.

Location Suggest change

START See  photo in Merlin's Wand description) Belay in the trees to the right. Traverse in 15-20ft on the 2” inch ledge until directly below the first black bolt. [Alternate start, probably the FA start: at the low-point of the ground about 30 - 40 feet below the first bolt.]

Protection Suggest change

Couple of draws; long sling if clipping the 3rd bolt on Merlin's Wand is in the program.

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