Sir Hector's Highway
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||RH & RW May 2015|
|Page Views:||183 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Jun 15, 2015|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionClean rock, this route is a bit more continuous in nature than most of the routes on the cliff; nominally rated 5.8+ or 5.9- until there is more input.
Sir Hector was another knight in the Holy Grail legend and the half-brother of Sir Lancelot.
This climb is located on the semi-independent slab to climber's right of the routes "Dick to the Rescue"/ "Picnic Table". See "LOCATION", and photos, for directions to this slab.
Rap with double ropes or a single 70m from double bolts at the top of the climb, which is located 35 ft below and 35 ft climber's/rapeller's left of the end of the Hector's approach path. [See "Location" for directions how to get there.] If you have only a single 60m, lengthen the anchor at least 15 ft with your slings. Swing / step right to a fine ledge just below, and to rapeller's right, of a small pine tree and other small trees. TCU's and/or small-med. nuts for the gear anchor.
P1 - Step down and left off the ledge, then up leftwards [TCU in flake] to the first bolt. Past this (crux) and up and slightly right passing two more bolts to reach a left-facing flake [ optional TCU / Yellow Alien]. Now up to the left, passing another bolt, on dark but clean, rock to a ledge. [ Gear: Red (#1.5) Camalot in a hole to the right ] Step left, then back right to a 8" partially-formed pocket, then up to the final headwall (bolt). 120-125 ft 5.8+ / 5.9- ?
"P2" - scramble up and right along the rock to the path you came in on. 70 ft 5.2 +/-
LocationAPPROACH #1 from base of slab: This route is on a slab to Climber's right of the main slab. The slabs are separated by several feet of mossy, somewhat chossy rock, which forms a rotten "cave" at the base of the cliff. (This 'cave' is 25-30 ft right of the start of Picnic Table and 50-60 ft right of Bugs Eat Frogs) Hike up the steep hillside just right of the 'cave' and then scramble back and forth following the easiest path, more or less straight up. Look for "daylight" up and to your left. Take care on the sandy ledges and scrambling, as well as the steep slope at the beginning which is easily steep enough to maintain a fall if you slip or dislodge a lose rock from the dirt.
The following approach from the top of the cliff may be better:
APPROACH #2 from top of cliff: Start on the open slab of the hiker's trail, (25-50 ft above the start of the climber's path down to the "Bugs" rap station.) Move down the viewer's/walker's far left of the slab and look for a tiny cairn marking a step left on the top of a boulder-like slab. [This 'step' has been brushed and is generally clean, but depending on the violence of the last rainstorm this may be sandy, so take care! ...perhaps using the assistance of a pine-tree branch for the move. Once over this step, a crude path that leads left (facing OUT) and then down to the top of a dirty slab and a rap ring on a tree.
While it is possible to downclimb (5.0 -5.2 X) the 75-80 ft to the bolted anchor, the slab currently has quite a bit of gritty dirt, so it is recommended to set up a short rappel, which is actually more of a tension traverse, which takes you nearly horizontally to rappeler's left", past a small pine tree, further left to an Aluminum-Bong Piton used as a directional to continue the tension traverse. [Note: 80 ft of 8mm or 7mm makes this rap much 'cleaner' than 'messing' with 200 or 230 ft of rope!] Clip [both strands if doing a regular rap, the one strand if using a single 80 ft rope] of the rap rope through the bong for a directional (have a sling with 2 biners ready). Then down to a sloping ledge and the 2 bolt anchor on the left. It is easier for the second (and 3rd) if they pull [both] the end[s] of the rap rope up though the directional's 'biner and then re-clip through the directional, rather than arrive and have to unclip and re-clip. Retrieve the sling and/or the 80ft rope on the way out.
NOTE: While the bolts are intact, in spring/summer of 2017 someone cut the cords of the rap anchor, so now only bolts remain. One cord was cut completely, the second was cut 90-95% through and left in place with the Quick Link "ring" still attached.