Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Traverse and Dick Tucker Aug 1995
Page Views: 127 total · 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Dick to the Rescue 5.10c or 5.9 (Plus the usual 5.5 PG/R)

NOTE: While at first glance the rock looks clean, “micro lichen” tends to grow, and the rock seems "grainy", so a wire brush may be in order if the climb hasn't been done in a while. According to Webster, the FA party did a “serious …effort to clean lichen.” This climb, and "Table Talk" were both put in by Dick Traverse and I've kept his ratings, although "Dick to the Rescue" seems just a tad easier than "Table Talk".

P1 – [See "START" in 'location' section] After climbing to the shallow ledge, step left and climb DIRECTLY over and past 3 bolts, then move right-ish to the double bolt anchor shared by “Dick” and Table Talk. 100 ft, 5.10c.
Variation P1 - Climb the rock about 3 to 4 ft left of the bolts, reaching over to clip them. 100 ft 5.9

P2 – A beautiful slab pitch and only 5.9! As the song says: "Get here if you can!...(and there are several ways to get to the dbl bolt anchor at the start of the pitch that don't require 5.10c climbing.)

From the dbl bolt anchor move left and climb up, passing a perfect hole for a #1 (Red) Camalot, then up into a thin, shallow corner for a few moves to a bolt (crux above), then past 2 more bolts, reaching a small pine tree. 100 feet, 5.9 with a fixed tree-and-bolt anchor, or combine with P3.

"P3" - Climb easily out to the left and up another 65 feet to the "Bugs" Rap Anchor tree at the top of the cliff. 60-65 ft, 5.0 ....but be careful of sand and dirt on the last steps.

Location

START About 15-20 feet right of Hornet. The start used to be at a log leaning against the cliff, but this has rotted away to almost nothing. The start can still be made here just right of the remnant of the log ( 5.9 – 5.10 ??) but most folk might prefer to scramble up the first moves of Hornet (5.7 PG/R) or Picnic Table (5.4) to reach the tiny flake that marks the move to clip the first bolt. [See photo of Hornet and "Dick" in the "Bugs" write-up/]

Protection

Draws for bolts; Red (#1) Camalot for 2nd pitch

Photos

0 Comments