Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brad White and Jim Frangos Summer 1983
Page Views: 80 total · 1/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 17, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1 – You may wish to bring a wire brush for a few of the footholds of the first 15-20 feet. Easily (5.4 or so) climb the slab on a left diagonal, moving onto the left (lowest) end of the vegetated ramp. Up this ramp to the dike. Clip the first Table Talk bolt above the dike [Possible belay here to reduce rope drag higher on the dike.] and then climb the dike past one more bolt (otherwise, limited protection possibilities, and not attractive if wet). Belay a couple of feet left of where the dike cuts through the overlap. (i.e. at the alternate P2 belay for Bugs, The belay uses #1 [red] and #2 [gold] Camalots) 180-200 ft 5.5 It is also possible to belay before the overlap by stepping right to the “Dick to the Rescue / Table Talk” dbl bolt anchor.

P2 – Follow the dike for 60-70 feet until one can climb up right to the "Bugs" Rap tree. 120 ft 5.4

Location

START About 40-50 feet right of “Bugs” on a 15-20 ft-high, well-featured slab directly below a vegetated ramp that rises to the right. [NOTE: The FA (and 5.6R ?) may have started further right where the dike comes down to the ground a few feet left of the “ugly cave”, but the rock here is now very moss and lichen covered.]

Protection

Other than the two bolts (1st really on Table Talk, and 2nd placed with permission of First Ascentionist Brad White), pro along the dike is sparse but the climbing is reasonable (i.e well below the crux grade)

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