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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FFA: Wolfe/Weygand
Page Views: 1,619 total · 22/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 15, 2012
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb past an arch and balance/reach/jump (?) through the crux roof (5.10d). The moves through the roof may be more difficult for those of shorter stature. Continue up slabby moves and fun moderate climbing to a second tricky move and a unique hold,then balance up to the anchors.


Located on the far right side of the Saddle Peak/Corpse Wall formation.
Just right of Route 10.


5 bolts, chain anchors.


The 10+ move on this climb is the bouldery roof move right at the the first bolt. Crux difficulty may be somewhat height-dependent and the rating is not yet fixed while we get a consensus. Fun, moderate, balancy climbing after the roof. Climb still has a fair amount of lichen, but clean holds and footholds are present and some traffic will improve it. Apr 16, 2012
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
Pretty fun route. The start was real tricky, but I used a small flake down and left instead of the left sloper and it made the move way easier. I'd say it's a 10d but all the other moves are 5.9-5.10a. Jun 22, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Interesting moves and good protection. We've repeated it on several occasions, a height dependent, one move wonder that is much easier if you're 6 ft. or taller. Take care clipping the 4th bolt as a fall onto a ledge is possible. Jul 3, 2012
Wil Sterner
Topanga, California
Wil Sterner   Topanga, California
Best route on the wall. Oct 9, 2013
Reno, NV
Ancent   Reno, NV
The first move is the cruxy 10d move. Its totally protected and very much height dependent. If I was two inches taller it'd feel like no more than 10a.

The rest of the climbing is great too. Slabby 9/10a climbing with an awesome finger lock in the middle. Sep 7, 2015
Downey, CA
polloloco   Downey, CA
Great climb! Definitely had to work on the first move a few times. At first it felt stiffly rated, but eventually I thought the grade was fair.

Agree with the above comments about lichen and 4th bolt. It looks like it's been cleaning up nicely. Oct 8, 2015
A. Man
A. Man   CA
Relative to the rest of the wall, I think this route deserves more stars. If it were twice as long it would be an instant moderate classic at the most popular of crags. Just my .2

I would also argue that the route is nowhere near 10d. The first move is height dependent but my pal is 5'8" but he was able to reach it. The rest is delightful 5.9-ish moves to the top.

I'd like to add mussy hooks to this anchor and the route to the immediate left unless there are any objections. May 11, 2017
alex carey
alex carey  
I'm 5'11" and I use every inch to get to the hold. I have to jump from a standing position to get to it. Jun 10, 2017
Don B
Gardena (South Bay)
Don B   Gardena (South Bay)
I TR'ed this route but would've felt comfortable leading in retrospect because the bolt that protects the crux is just above it and can easily be reached beforehand. I "fell" 5 or 6 times before figuring it out but it was fun. Nov 30, 2017

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