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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 892 total, 11/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the right-side bolted crack up the the slab. Variations exist both right and left of the crack. Crux is the roof-move to the anchor. An (easier) variation to the finish exits up the far right side of the summit with better gear protection.

Location

Right-side route of the obvious slab to the right of the central routes. Shares an anchor with route #8. Rap or walk off.

Protection

5 bolts + anchors. Routes 7 and 8 were intended as mixed routes. Small rack of cams up to #3 recommended if you want to protect the runouts, or forgo the gear to make it "sporty". For a separate finish from the left #7 route stay to the right (skipping the last bolt) climbing discontinuous gear-protectable cracks to the anchor.

Photos

Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.7 PG13
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.7 PG13
Less run out than Route 7 to the left, but the more "slabby" moves require more thought. Bring a #.75 (or #.5?) for the top protection. Apr 19, 2015