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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,071 total, 13/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Left-center route. Balancy start to techy face climbing with optional crack assist. Traverse right at finish to the central shared anchor. Edit to add: this climb now has an independent anchor for lead climbers.

Location

Starts at a right-leaning seam to a face with a crack on your right. This route is actually two routes to the right of Route #3 since a route (Xeno Dance)was added in between them. Using the crack makes it easier. Shares the obvious anchor with routes 5 and 6.

Protection

6 bolts + anchor. Optional #2 in the crack below the anchor.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
7 bolts to an independent anchor with a double ring and a Metolius rap hanger. Oct 25, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
And here it is. The new anchor for Route #4.

Jun 17, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
An independent anchor for lead-climbers was added to the face at the top of this route after repeated disputes and confusion over the shared anchor on busier days. Mar 5, 2014
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
This route feels scary than the others because there was way more lichen on it than other so my feet felt way sketchier. But its got plenty of bolts so it just made it a little harder and made me be more careful. Apr 30, 2012