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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,344 total, 13/month
Shared By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Middle section of route feels a bit run out and wanders, looks like there are a couple of variations bolted on this route - but follow the left bolt line to the anchors. This is a fun route despite the wandering nature. I often wondered if the route was originally intended to be a mixed trad sport route as there are lots of cracks that could potentially be used for trad gear. Although, the rock is a sandstone/conglomerate and rock strength could be an issue.

Location

3rd route on wall from left - start is to the right of the big crack. Walk off or rappel.

Protection

6-7 bolts to 3 bolt anchors with rap rings - shares anchors with Route 1 and 2.
Maidy
  5.8+
Maidy  
  5.8+
Route #3: Fun climb. Recommend climbing directly up the natural line to make this more enjoyable. Climb the small roof (use the right side 1st bolt) to the arete, then straight up the obvious face/cracks as nature intended. A little sporty in spots. Optional gear placements for the cracks, but the bolts are where you need them

Edit to add: Route 3 now has it's own anchor (chains).

Left-Gully Variation: (Now listed as the "Block Gully Route"). Clip the left side 1st bolt then head out left to 2 random bolts on the large blocks. (Kinda confusing). Apr 16, 2011