Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Ousley and Friends
Page Views: 1,506 total · 16/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Face and steep balancy slab climbing. Tricky moves after the first bolt and a gripping top out.

Location

Far right side of the Corpse Wall. This is the second to last climb on the wall. 2 bolt anchor has rap rings

Protection

4 bolts + anchors. Sporty. 1 Optional piece to protect the lower crack.

Photos

Maidy
  5.9+
Maidy  
  5.9+
A note on Christmas Chronicle. It was put up on a Christmas day and come to find out... Mike originally rated this climb only 5.8.

Climbing this route over decade after it was put up... it had seen zero traffic.. it was covered in loose dirt and lichen and was an extremely intimidating lead with and R-rated fall factor if you didn't have right gear, so the consensus without the FA input was 10- at the time.

These days, it is clean and way less scary. A retro-bolt placed was placed at some point (not by us) - which did eliminate the potential ground-fall. I'm starting to agree more with the moderate rating set by the FA. Although this route will seem tough for some, there are definitely easy ways to get up it. I'd call it 5.9 now.

This is a good line IMO. Not really my call, but if the FAist wants the retro-bolt removed it can get the chop. Bring a med/small cam and don't clip the second bolt if you want to experience it for real. Jul 22, 2013
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Awesome climb. I'd say this and #2 are the best on the wall. That said, I'd also say they go at the same difficulty. The slabby stuff at the top is pretty thin and though provoking. So if this is a 9+ than so is #2 or vice versa for 10a. Sep 7, 2015
Professor Snax
Atlanta
Professor Snax   Atlanta
A fun 5.9 with good clean moves at the end.

We protected before the first bolt with a #1 in the short "roof" crack. May 11, 2017
Is this the same as #10 on that photo with all the red lines and numbers? Jan 27, 2018
Maidy
  5.9+
Maidy  
  5.9+
"Is this the same as #10 on that photo "

Yes- A few new routes have been added that aren't on that topo though. Feb 17, 2018