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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Ousley and Friends
Page Views: 1,250 total, 15/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Face and steep balancy slab climbing. Tricky moves after the first bolt and a gripping top out.

Location

Far right side of the Corpse Wall. This is the second to last climb on the wall. 2 bolt anchor has rap rings

Protection

4 bolts + anchors. Sporty. 1 Optional piece to protect the lower crack.

Photos

S. Lucas   CA
A fun 5.9 with good clean moves at the end.

We protected before the first bolt with a #1 in the short "roof" crack. May 11, 2017
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Awesome climb. I'd say this and #2 are the best on the wall. That said, I'd also say they go at the same difficulty. The slabby stuff at the top is pretty thin and though provoking. So if this is a 9+ than so is #2 or vice versa for 10a. Sep 7, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
A note on Christmas Chronicle. It was put up on a Christmas day and come to find out... Mike originally rated this climb only 5.8.

Climbing this route over decade after it was put up... it had seen zero traffic.. it was covered in loose dirt and lichen and was an extremely intimidating lead with and R-rated fall factor if you didn't have right gear, so the consensus without the FA input was 10- at the time.

These days, it is clean and way less scary. A retro-bolt placed was placed at some point (not by us) - which did eliminate the potential ground-fall. I'm starting to agree more with the moderate rating set by the FA. Although this route will seem tough for some, there are definitely easy ways to get up it. I'd call it 5.9 now.

This is a good line IMO. Not really my call, but if the FAist wants the retro-bolt removed it can get the chop. Bring a med/small cam and don't clip the second bolt if you want to experience it for real. Jul 22, 2013