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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Wolfe/Vasquez
Page Views: 1,760 total, 22/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Route just to the right of Route#3. A fun wandering route that follows varied natural features. Starts up a right-leaning crack then traverses left across the face to the top. Crux is sidestepping left across a series of xenoliths (pebbles) to get to the left-hand crack.

Location

Route in between route #3 and #4.

Protection

Draws. A couple of longer runners will reduce rope drag on the traverse. Chain anchors. Rap, lower or walk off.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Best route at the crag. Hate to be THAT guy, but pebbles in a conglomerate/sandstone do not count as xenoliths. "Xeno" implies that they are foreign to the rock type. An example would be loose cobbles picked up and incorporated into a lava flow. The pebbles in this formation are just larger chunks (clasts) of the same sandy matrix material. But "Clast Dance" or "Pebble Dance" doesn't quite have the same catchy ring to it. Nov 14, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Placing a quickdraw, as a directional, on the left bolt at the anchor and traversing left to and using the anchor on Route #3 keeps the rope from running into the crack below the "Xeno Dance" anchor. May 12, 2017
Jason Schliekelman
Woodland Hills Ca
 
Jason Schliekelman   Woodland Hills Ca
 
we did a super fun variation linking the two crux sections of Xeno Dance and then finished by working right onto the upper section of Proud Mary. makes for a good heady climb. Feb 3, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
I like this climb and would happily repeat it. Nov 14, 2013
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Actually the "old" pitons were new pitons - which we have now been replaced with a single bolt in a better position. Apr 8, 2012
Jeff K  
Pretty cool... there are 2 old pitons hammered in on this route about 3/4 way up. Jul 3, 2011