Block/Gully Var.
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Type: | Sport |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,626 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Maidy Vasquez on Aug 25, 2012 |
Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Corpse Wall sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.
Description
The odd old bolted/mixed route that heads up the huge blocks and gully just right of the Roof Route. Share's the start of #3 (clip the left bolt at the roof) then gully-hop, traversing left while clipping the 2 bolts on top of the big blocks. Ends straight up a crack with a manzanita growing out of it. (Shown as the dotted line "var" on the beta map).
Pretty grungy with some loose rock in the gulleys. There are a couple of moves off the blocks some folks may find fun, but the topout around the bush is gritty and awkward. NOTE: Cutting manzaninta is illegal so please don't kill the bush to facilitate a mediocre climb.
For a more interesting finish... just keep traversing left to link up and top out on the #2 Roof Route. Watch your rope-end on the lower. Not sure if 60m makes it to the ground.
Pretty grungy with some loose rock in the gulleys. There are a couple of moves off the blocks some folks may find fun, but the topout around the bush is gritty and awkward. NOTE: Cutting manzaninta is illegal so please don't kill the bush to facilitate a mediocre climb.
For a more interesting finish... just keep traversing left to link up and top out on the #2 Roof Route. Watch your rope-end on the lower. Not sure if 60m makes it to the ground.
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