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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 569 total, 9/month
Shared By: Maidy on Aug 25, 2012
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The odd old bolted/mixed route that heads up the huge blocks and gully just right of the Roof Route. Share's the start of #3 (clip the left bolt at the roof) then gully-hop, traversing left while clipping the 2 bolts on top of the big blocks. Ends straight up a crack with a manzanita growing out of it. (Shown as the dotted line "var" on the beta map).

Pretty grungy with some loose rock in the gulleys. There are a couple of moves off the blocks some folks may find fun, but the topout around the bush is gritty and awkward. NOTE: Cutting manzaninta is illegal so please don't kill the bush to facilitate a mediocre climb.

For a more interesting finish... just keep traversing left to link up and top out on the #2 Roof Route. Watch your rope-end on the lower. Not sure if 60m makes it to the ground.

Location

This is the bolted gully between the #2 "Roof Route" and the #3 Route.

Protection

Draws. A couple of mid-size cams to protect the runout crack at the top.

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