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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,047 total, 13/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Face and discontinuous crack climbing up the left side of the slab. Crux is the roof-move to the anchor.

Location

obvious slab to the right of the central routes. Shares an anchor with route #8.

Protection

4 bolts + anchors. Routes 7 and 8 were intended as mixed routes. Small rack of wires and cams up to #3 recommended if you want to protect the runouts, or forgo the gear to make it "sporty".
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.7 PG13
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.7 PG13
OK route. The middle and top portions are run out, but it hardly requires any new bolting. The middle run out is ground fall territory but the holds are positive. The top run out is safer. As already stated, a #2 protects the middle and a #.75 protects the top. Apr 19, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Mixed routes may seem "pointless" to some, but it's the way the FAist put it them so we've left them as originally conceived. People should treat this as an opportunity. These are actually good training routes for beginning trad leaders since the initial moves are bolt protected and the gear-section is easy climbing. Jun 23, 2013
Jared
Los Angeles
 
Jared   Los Angeles
 
Do take a #2 or #3 cam to protect yourself from a ground fall... or just run it out.

Seems pointless to have this route (or any routes at this crag) be mixed trad/sport. If it were up to me, I would just put in another bolt so noobs can lead it safely and remove the PG13 rating. Same goes for route #8. It's not like you are going to learn to climb trad by placing one cam half way up a bolted slab... to bolted anchors at the top. ;-) Oct 15, 2012