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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,153 total, 20/month
Shared By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009 with updates
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The route follows an arete at the edge of the formation - comibnation of face and arete climbing. The crux is moving through the last two bolts to the anchor. An easier option is to stay left on the arete or move slight right for a harder finish up the face.

Location

1st route on the wall (left to right - looking at the wall). This route can be toproped as it is easy to hike to the top of the wall.

Protection

5 bolts to a three bolt anchor with rap rings. The first bolt is approximately 15 feet off the ground with a bouldery start. Double length runners can protect around the horns between bolts 2 and 3. Especially since the grade is easy-ish, leaders in this range might want to know how to make the climb more comfortable.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.6 PG13
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.6 PG13
Good advice Tristan. Thanks. Also, due to the position of the anchors it's easier to walk off then to rappel and wrestle with a miserable struggle pulling the rope. Dec 25, 2015
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.6
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.6
Bring longer slings for the bottom bolts to reduce rope drag. As Tristan said, the horns (two good ones) are an easy way to protect between bolts. The crux for me was the last couple of moves if you climb staying on the arete. The last bolt is around to your right on the face while delicate moves keep you on the arete. If no one is on the roof route, you can rap down that route.

Also, you don't change the rating based on TR or leading. Apr 19, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7 PG13
Thanks for the good advice Tristan, I took a double and totally used it. Aug 10, 2013
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Agree - Bring some long slings for mid route protection. If you want to top-rope this climb, you will need a cordalette to extend the anchor, and a long runner to sling the horn for a directional. Directional draws on the bolts for your TR are recommended since it is possible to take a pendulum swing off the edge of this climb. Apr 15, 2012
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
 
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
 
This route isn't that run out. Just bring a double shoulder length sling for a horn inbetween the second and third bolts and it's pretty safe. Also the anchors are to the right so if someone is TRing it, bring a double shoulder for a horn at the top to protect the last moves for them. Feb 6, 2012
Jimippa
Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.6 R
Jimippa   Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.6 R
Great route. Super run out, but the first 3 bolts are pretty easy. The last move makes you work a little and tests your nerves if your leading it. TR 5.4, Sport 5.7 in my opinion.


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