Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,666 total · 22/month
Shared By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009 with improvements by Ancent
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The route follows an arete at the edge of the formation - comibnation of face and arete climbing. The crux is moving through the last two bolts to the anchor. An easier option is to stay left on the arete or move slight right for a harder finish up the face.


1st route on the wall (left to right - looking at the wall). This route can be toproped as it is easy to hike to the top of the wall.


5 bolts to a three bolt anchor with rap rings. The first bolt is approximately 15 feet off the ground with a bouldery start. Double length runners can protect around the horns between bolts 2 and 3. Especially since the grade is easy-ish, leaders in this range might want to know how to make the climb more comfortable.


Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.6 R
Jimippa   Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.6 R
Great route. Super run out, but the first 3 bolts are pretty easy. The last move makes you work a little and tests your nerves if your leading it. TR 5.4, Sport 5.7 in my opinion.

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Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
This route isn't that run out. Just bring a double shoulder length sling for a horn inbetween the second and third bolts and it's pretty safe. Also the anchors are to the right so if someone is TRing it, bring a double shoulder for a horn at the top to protect the last moves for them. Feb 6, 2012
Agree - Bring some long slings for mid route protection. If you want to top-rope this climb, you will need a cordalette to extend the anchor, and a long runner to sling the horn for a directional. Directional draws on the bolts for your TR are recommended since it is possible to take a pendulum swing off the edge of this climb. Apr 15, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7 PG13
Thanks for the good advice Tristan, I took a double and totally used it. Aug 10, 2013
Reno, NV
Ancent   Reno, NV
Bring longer slings for the bottom bolts to reduce rope drag. As Tristan said, the horns (two good ones) are an easy way to protect between bolts. The crux for me was the last couple of moves if you climb staying on the arete. The last bolt is around to your right on the face while delicate moves keep you on the arete. If no one is on the roof route, you can rap down that route.

Also, you don't change the rating based on TR or leading. Apr 19, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.6 PG13
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.6 PG13
Good advice Tristan. Thanks. Also, due to the position of the anchors it's easier to walk off then to rappel and wrestle with a miserable struggle pulling the rope. Dec 25, 2015
Bolt hangers missing at the anchor, bring some long (10 to 20 foot) slings to set up anchor Feb 19, 2018
Steve Van Voorhis
Anaheim Hills
Steve Van Voorhis   Anaheim Hills
Agree with Ancent. A climb's rating is its rating regardless of how you climb it. Apr 13, 2019