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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 934 total, 12/month
Shared By: Maidy on Apr 16, 2011
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A variation start to the center routes that follows the right-side weaknesses. It merges with route #5 at the 4th bolt and has the same finish. A mixed-gear variation finishes up the big crack on the right.

Location

Right-side central route that starts at the tree and shares the central anchor with routes 4 and 5.

Protection

7 bolts + anchors. Well protected but optional gear in the .4-#2 range if you would like to protect the easy runouts.
A fun, alternate finish: clip the first three bolts then climb the large right-side crack which takes med to large gear. Extra 3" helpful. I'd give the trad-finish an extra star.

Photos

Wil Sterner
Topanga, California
Wil Sterner   Topanga, California
Saw this one go on gear only. The leader didn't fall but we were optimistic that some of the cams would have held. Oct 9, 2013
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
 
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
 
This route has a lot of spots for pretty good trad gear. Apr 30, 2012