Saddle Peak Rock Climbing
Routes in Saddle Peak
|Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|GPS:||34.079, -118.659 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009|
|Admins:||jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionSaddle Peak (2600 ft), located on Stunt Road, near the crest of the Santa Monica Mountains, is a north facing sandstone outcrop. While Saddle Peak receives modest traffic from climbers the rock exhibits a grainy/ball barring feel under foot and a considerable amount of lichen throughout.
Saddle Peak hosts fifteen bolt protected "sport" routes, which often take or may require supplemental traditional gear, depending on your abilities and head for run outs on moderate grades. Remember to bring a selection of cams and nuts for most routes.
The rock is sandstone and sandstone conglomerate, with aggregate, xenoliths, or pebbles protruding from the matrix, on many routes. While Saddle Peak seems to be the perfect low commitment sport crag, the north facing aspect makes it shady and cold in the winter and sunny and hot in the summer. The best climbing days are warm fall or winter days and cool spring days.
The main wall is referred to as the "Corpse Wall" as the route developers discovered a body at the base. The crag was developed in the mid-2000s.
Getting ThereSanta Monica Mountains. Park at the intersection of Stunt Road, Saddle Peak Road and Schueren Road hike up the Backbone trail to the west (towards water tower). The slabs are an obvious formation approximately 3/4 mile up the trail. The trail climbs for the first 1/2 mile and then descends slightly to the climbs - main wall to the left of the trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Saddle Peak
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season