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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,672 total, 35/month
Shared By: Michael Bartosek on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Last two bolts to anchors - steeper face with small holds but good feet.

Location

2nd route from left on wall. A bouldery start to 1st bolt just left of huge crack in wall. Climb up past manzanita bush for 1st clip. Walkoff or 3 bolt anchor with rap rings.

Protection

6-8 bolts to a three bolt anchor with rap rings.
Great line Nov 5, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Arguably the best route at Saddle Peak. Definitely the longest. Ditto on Maidy's comments regarding walking off, as pulling the rope through the rings and keeping it from snagging in the trees or the gully is really a pain. Jun 20, 2015
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9+
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9+
Best climb on the wall! There is a bolt protecting every real move you make. Apr 19, 2015
hikingdrew
Los Angeles, CA
 
hikingdrew   Los Angeles, CA
 
+1 for directionals for TR, a fall on the lower half will pendulum into a wall across a small gully and will ruin your day... Oct 14, 2013
Maidy
  5.10a/b
Maidy  
  5.10a/b
Definitely the best route on the wall. A must-do. Super fun, technical and thoughtful. Some may find the rating a little stiff, but the bolts are where you need them. The path of least resistance is not a straight line.

The (shared) anchor is set back and requires a cordalette for extension if you want to TR this climb. Pulling the rope after cleaning is a bit of a pain in the rear since the rap-rings are flat on the rock + the gully and bushes are rope-grabbers. I actually recommend just belaying the second up and walking back to the base to save time.

If you are TR-ing this leave some directionals since it is possible to take a pendulum fall on the bottom section. Apr 7, 2012
Sean Denny
Irvine
  5.9
Sean Denny   Irvine
  5.9
One of my favorites. The path of least resistance weaves back and forth between the bolts. If you go straight from bolt to bolt then I'd believe the 10a/b grade. Regardless, a wonderful lesson in slab technique without the danger of substantial bodily harm. Nov 15, 2011
Jimippa
Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.10b PG13
Jimippa   Sherman Oaks, CA
  5.10b PG13
This was a awesome, mental, slabby 5.10a. I think it's abit harder, but I'm not used to slabby stuff so I'm really nobody who can judge. It begins with sweet move over a big block. Then is stairs for 20ft. You traverse left once you run out of hand holds and start a mock crack climb that slowly disappears as you make your way up to the last to bolts. The crack ends and your left with nothing to hold on to, or stand on 8ft from the anchors, 5 ft above your last clip. Ha...

It's one smooth, wishful move that if you miss, you'll surely lose some skin! Overall, this is a "classic" route with a lot of different climbing techniques built in.


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