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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ben Chapman
Page Views: 1,360 total, 45/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 20, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin climbing the partially detached flake to its top (optional small to #1 cams). Move up and right on the face to a large hueco. From the hueco climb up the face and use the seam/crack above the ledge to gain a 4th bolt (the 5th bolt of "Xeno Dance"). Continue up and right on the face using small features and scoops. As the face steepens smear and use features to reach the last bolt at a thin seam. Use the seam and crescent shaped scoops to reach a final mantle into the recess at the top and the anchor.

Location

Ten feet left of "Xeno Dance." Right of the huge chimney that splits the left side of the Corpse Wall. Start at the base of a reddish tinted flake with a serrated right edge.

Protection

8 bolts (shares 5th bolt with Xeno Dance) & 2-ring Fixe anchor.
Dustin Stephens
  5.10d
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10d
Good climbing up top. Squeezed in and contrived at the bottom. Nov 5, 2017
alex carey
  5.10c/d
alex carey  
  5.10c/d
compromise on 15 minutes. Its a good route, probably the best at the crag. Jun 10, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Hey, Thanks, Jeff. Great route in a beautiful location and fun moves on solid stone. We, the average Joes, love our sandbox. Alas, no "rock stars" to rub elbows and take selfies with, but we think it's great. It's a 10 minute hike. Eat your Wheaties and leave the bong at home. Dec 29, 2016
Sandy pile of low angle low-level routes. Grid bolted. Not worth the 20 min hike, but for the "average" climbing joe, they think it's great. Dec 29, 2016
Ally McBeal
  5.10d
Ally McBeal  
  5.10d
Did this route today. Best route on the wall. Rad moves and great pro. Dec 22, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Been out to climb this a couple times now. The positive- upper half is a good technical steep climb worthy of some stars. The bad - NOT a fan of how the start was engineered. The roof bolt is extremely reachy for someone with a short wing span. If you don't bring gear- it's a R-rated fall and slightly contrived in light of the bolted crack immediately to the left that can be used to access the head wall. It should have just shared a start with an existing climb IMO Dec 17, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
A brilliant and sustained direct line that incorporates wonderful sandstone features, a fun layback flake, steep friction, and a challenging mantle at the end. Far from grid bolted, "Proud Mary" briefly shares a bolt with a meandering 5.9. Oct 26, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Crossing an established line is pretty weak-sauce, but grid-bolt as you see fit. Oct 26, 2015
polloloco
Downey, CA
 
polloloco   Downey, CA
 
I went back and confirmed you guys are absolutely right. I went off route and did the 2nd half of Xenodance instead! Removed my rating. Will have to climb this correctly next time! Oct 8, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Have to give it a go next time we are in the area. I've TR'd that top section in the past- definitely 10c/d and surely a thought provoking lead now that it's bolted. The wall has so many features it's actually possible to create a number of diagonally crossing lines. Aug 26, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
polloloco...I concur with Tony that you must have continued up the upper portion of Xeno Dance.
Proud Mary cuts up and right above the 4th bolt (or the 5th bolt of Xeno Dance). You'll find more thought provoking moves, NOT mild, near the top. Jul 13, 2015
Pollo, if you call the rest of it "mild climbing", you probably missed the crossing with Xeno Dance. You cross Xeno--don't join it. The top half of Xeno is mild, the top half of Proud Mary is harder than the bottom. The hardest move is right at the end--a mantle just before the anchors. Jul 13, 2015
polloloco
Downey, CA
 
polloloco   Downey, CA
 
I really enjoyed this route. Thought provoking slab to the roof bolt, then eases up to mild climbing all the way. Jul 12, 2015
one of the top routes on this wall--several cruxes, with a devilish exit mantle.

a 3/4" to 1" cam in a slot above the entry flake will protect the approach to that high first bolt. Jul 3, 2015