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Routes in Saddle Peak

Block/Gully Var. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Christmas Chronicle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cobble me a climb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Dance S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morpheus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Not Lichen This T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Outsider, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Path of Enlichenment S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Proud Mary S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Richard's Rift T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route 1 - R.I.P Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Route 2 - The Roof Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 3 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 4 1/2 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Route 5 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 6 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Route 7 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 7 1/2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 8 T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Route 9 S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Xeno Dance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,576 total · 48/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jun 20, 2015 with updates
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin climbing the partially detached flake to its top (optional small to #1 cams). Move up and right on the face to a large hueco. From the hueco climb up the face and use the seam/crack above the ledge to gain a 4th bolt (the 5th bolt of "Xeno Dance"). Continue up and right on the face using small features and scoops. As the face steepens smear and use features to reach the last bolt at a thin seam. Use the seam and crescent shaped scoops to reach a final mantle into the recess at the top and the anchor.

Location

Ten feet left of "Xeno Dance." Right of the huge chimney that splits the left side of the Corpse Wall. Start at the base of a reddish tinted flake with a serrated right edge.

Protection

8 bolts (shares 5th bolt with Xeno Dance) & 2-ring Fixe anchor.

Photos

Sandy pile of low angle low-level routes. Grid bolted. Not worth the 20 min hike, but for the "average" climbing joe, they think it's great. Dec 29, 2016
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
  5.10c/d PG13
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
  5.10c/d PG13
I think awareness is the key here. Apparently I didn’t climb the route directly under the bolt. I went just slightly left up some positive holds instead. Without someone pointing out the exact moves, there’s no way to tell exactly how it should be done. The bolts from a few different routes criss cross each other in this area. Not the most ideal or pleasing design but I guess it’s what worked for the wall. They got some ok lines up though I don’t feel I need to make another trip out there. Jan 5, 2018
alex carey
  5.10c/d
alex carey  
  5.10c/d
no doubt, clearly pg13 since you clipped every bolt, fell, and landed on a ledge.

no easy walk back either.

Any thoughts on a fix? moving a bolt? or just awareness is enough. Jan 4, 2018
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
  5.10c/d PG13
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
  5.10c/d PG13
Thanks Alex. Been a week and still can’t walk on it. My worst climbing injury. I understand that it was a freak accident but it is still important, in my opinion, to let others be aware of the possibility of injury here. The Manzanita was already dead. Now laying on side of road by parking. I would have happily cut a branch down if I couldn’t find a dead one though. I was in a lot of pain trying to figure out how to get back to the car. Jan 4, 2018
alex carey
  5.10c/d
alex carey  
  5.10c/d
hopefully that manzanita was already dead. /s

but seriously, glad you're ok, I hadn't noticed any issues with the bolting on this climb, except that its slab. as I recall the ledge is pretty slanted, easy enough to stand on in climbing shoe but its not like you can do jumping jacks on it. Jan 2, 2018
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
  5.10c/d PG13
Joe Garibay   Ventura, Ca
  5.10c/d PG13
Fell at what I think was 3rd maybe second bolt. Coming off the ledge into the small roof, I slipped. Here you clip out right, then pull out some slack as you climb left and up. Here is where I swung down. Because of the slack you pull when climbing, it left me with just enough room to smash my left foot down on the ledge. Took me over an hour to cruch my way back to the car with a stick of Manzanita. The bolting sucks on this wall. Glad this trip is out of the way. Thanks to Jeff L. for catching me and helping me out. Hopefully I’ll be climbing again soon. Dec 26, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.10d
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10d
Good climbing up top. Squeezed in and contrived at the bottom. Nov 5, 2017
alex carey
  5.10c/d
alex carey  
  5.10c/d
compromise on 15 minutes. Its a good route, probably the best at the crag. Jun 10, 2017
Ally McBeal
  5.10d
Ally McBeal  
  5.10d
Did this route today. Best route on the wall. Rad moves and great pro. Dec 22, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Been out to climb this a couple times now. The positive- upper half is a good technical steep climb worthy of some stars. The bad - NOT a fan of how the start was engineered. The roof bolt is extremely reachy for someone with a short wing span. If you don't bring gear- it's a R-rated fall and slightly contrived in light of the bolted crack immediately to the left that can be used to access the head wall. It should have just shared a start with an existing climb IMO Dec 17, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c/d
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10c/d
A brilliant and sustained direct line that incorporates wonderful sandstone features, a fun layback flake, steep friction, and a challenging mantle at the end. Far from grid bolted, "Proud Mary" briefly shares a bolt with a meandering 5.9. Oct 26, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Crossing an established line is pretty weak-sauce, but grid-bolt as you see fit. Oct 26, 2015
polloloco
Downey, CA
 
polloloco   Downey, CA
 
I went back and confirmed you guys are absolutely right. I went off route and did the 2nd half of Xenodance instead! Removed my rating. Will have to climb this correctly next time! Oct 8, 2015
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Have to give it a go next time we are in the area. I've TR'd that top section in the past- definitely 10c/d and surely a thought provoking lead now that it's bolted. The wall has so many features it's actually possible to create a number of diagonally crossing lines. Aug 26, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c/d
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10c/d
polloloco...I concur with Tony that you must have continued up the upper portion of Xeno Dance.
Proud Mary cuts up and right above the 4th bolt (or the 5th bolt of Xeno Dance). You'll find more thought provoking moves, NOT mild, near the top. Jul 13, 2015
Pollo, if you call the rest of it "mild climbing", you probably missed the crossing with Xeno Dance. You cross Xeno--don't join it. The top half of Xeno is mild, the top half of Proud Mary is harder than the bottom. The hardest move is right at the end--a mantle just before the anchors. Jul 13, 2015
polloloco
Downey, CA
 
polloloco   Downey, CA
 
I really enjoyed this route. Thought provoking slab to the roof bolt, then eases up to mild climbing all the way. Jul 12, 2015
one of the top routes on this wall--several cruxes, with a devilish exit mantle.

a 3/4" to 1" cam in a slot above the entry flake will protect the approach to that high first bolt. Jul 3, 2015

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