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Sorcerer's Apprentice
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in The Bookend
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Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,432 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Oct 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Sorcerer's Apprentice is a minor variation to the Sorcerer that adds ~150 feet of high quality climbing, some of which is shared with COTAM and Labor of Lust.
P1: (5.8+, 55m) Climb Sorcerer for 55m to a good stance just below the left-leaning corner on P2. The anchor consists of nuts and a 0.5 C4, so you can dump your rack in this long pitch.
P2/3: (5.10-, 70m) Climb the left-leaning corner system off the belay to a thin section where the corner ends. Thin slab moves (crux) lead to a rest and good gear. Climb left on runout jugs to the bolt on Labor for Lust. Then climb straight through the overhead roof crack (5.9) and finish up moderate rock to the summit.
With a 70m rope, you can make the summit in one long pitch!
P1: (5.8+, 55m) Climb Sorcerer for 55m to a good stance just below the left-leaning corner on P2. The anchor consists of nuts and a 0.5 C4, so you can dump your rack in this long pitch.
P2/3: (5.10-, 70m) Climb the left-leaning corner system off the belay to a thin section where the corner ends. Thin slab moves (crux) lead to a rest and good gear. Climb left on runout jugs to the bolt on Labor for Lust. Then climb straight through the overhead roof crack (5.9) and finish up moderate rock to the summit.
With a 70m rope, you can make the summit in one long pitch!
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