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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid
FA: Bernard Gillett and Chris Hill, 1993
Page Views: 772 total, 4/month
Shared By: paco on Mar 25, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

First climbed by [Estes Park] ledgends Bernard and Crusty in '93. Wide Gauge is not well known but holds some great aid and is, in fact, included on the Lumpy-aid tick list. so check it out!

The crux of this climb may be the approach. Hike west past the front of the Bookmark until looking at its rarely climbed west face. From here devise a way to access Wide Gauge. Look for No Bozos, an ugly [crystalline], vertical crack and carry your overloaded pack through some classic 4th class to its base.

From here, aid or free climb No Bozo's nasty crack until the beautiful thin crack to the left is too much to ignore. Make a long reach, or short pendulum to this crack which is the start of Wide Gauge. Depending on how low you start in the thin crack, its thin aid for a ways (C2, C2+, RPs, beaks and cam hooks), yet it is also easy to stay with No Bozos until Wide Gauge cuts out left on a long leaning crack (C1 or 5.10). Either way [you'll] end up taking the nice leaning crack (C1+) for a nice diagonal ride to a belay in a chimney. From here, climb up the loose chimney to a sub-summit of the Bookend. Continue to the true summit with lots of 4th and 5th class or take the handy, but hidden, rap located on the ridge above.

Protection

Bring the usual clean aid rack.

Photos

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