Type: | Trad, Aid |
FA: | Bernard Gillett and Chris Hill, 1993 |
Page Views: | 823 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | paco on Mar 25, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
First climbed by [Estes Park] ledgends Bernard and Crusty in '93. Wide Gauge is not well known but holds some great aid and is, in fact, included on the Lumpy-aid tick list. so check it out!
The crux of this climb may be the approach. Hike west past the front of the Bookmark until looking at its rarely climbed west face. From here devise a way to access Wide Gauge. Look for No Bozos, an ugly [crystalline], vertical crack and carry your overloaded pack through some classic 4th class to its base.
From here, aid or free climb No Bozo's nasty crack until the beautiful thin crack to the left is too much to ignore. Make a long reach, or short pendulum to this crack which is the start of Wide Gauge. Depending on how low you start in the thin crack, its thin aid for a ways (C2, C2+, RPs, beaks and cam hooks), yet it is also easy to stay with No Bozos until Wide Gauge cuts out left on a long leaning crack (C1 or 5.10). Either way [you'll] end up taking the nice leaning crack (C1+) for a nice diagonal ride to a belay in a chimney. From here, climb up the loose chimney to a sub-summit of the Bookend. Continue to the true summit with lots of 4th and 5th class or take the handy, but hidden, rap located on the ridge above.
The crux of this climb may be the approach. Hike west past the front of the Bookmark until looking at its rarely climbed west face. From here devise a way to access Wide Gauge. Look for No Bozos, an ugly [crystalline], vertical crack and carry your overloaded pack through some classic 4th class to its base.
From here, aid or free climb No Bozo's nasty crack until the beautiful thin crack to the left is too much to ignore. Make a long reach, or short pendulum to this crack which is the start of Wide Gauge. Depending on how low you start in the thin crack, its thin aid for a ways (C2, C2+, RPs, beaks and cam hooks), yet it is also easy to stay with No Bozos until Wide Gauge cuts out left on a long leaning crack (C1 or 5.10). Either way [you'll] end up taking the nice leaning crack (C1+) for a nice diagonal ride to a belay in a chimney. From here, climb up the loose chimney to a sub-summit of the Bookend. Continue to the true summit with lots of 4th and 5th class or take the handy, but hidden, rap located on the ridge above.
Photos
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