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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chris Banks and Kevin Murphy
Page Views: 1,163 total · 9/month
Shared By: ChrisB on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Begin 25' right from the start of Winds of Fortune.

Climb up to a bolt 15' off the ground, step right, then up to an obvious flake (10d, thin). Traverse left to the L-diagonalling finger crack of Winds of Fortune. Climb this for eight feet to a jug, but then crank out right (10d) to a big flake. Mantle up onto the flake, clip a bolt, then undercling up and right along a seam (crux, 11b). Where the seam turns vertical, face climb up and left across another diagonal seam to gain the low-angle slab above. Belay 20-30 feet higher on a ledge with a slung flake.

Protection

2 bolts + small wires and cams to 1.5"

Rappel 90' from sling anchor. If belaying/toproping off this anchor, bring a few med/large stoppers and a 1" cam, plus a cordalette to equalize everything.

Photos

kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Just talked to Chris on the phone. Reminded me of this route. Little gem of a route. Gets good sun this time of year. Good times.... Jan 11, 2009