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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Hidetaka and Mishiko Suzuki, 1983
Page Views: 802 total, 6/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Feb 12, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

Climb the OJ corner up to the roof and battle out the crack in the right side of the roof. The roof is somewhere around 18 feet long and starts with thin fingers and ends with a crux offwidth section turning the lip. I’ve seen it done a few different ways, so I won’t attempt to give technique beta, but I do suggest checking out the equipment beta.

Location

This pitch takes the crack out the right side of the Orange Julius roof (the huge, orange triangular roof 60 feet above the ground in the center of the crag).

Protection

Including cams for the anchor, I would carry a set of wires, a couple thin finger-sized cams, a couple thin-hands-sized cams, two #3 Camalots, one #4 Camalot, two #5 Camalots, and one #3 Bigbro. The Bigbro can take the place of one of the #5 Camalots. After turning the lip, keeping the rope from getting stuck in your gear in the roof is a distinct problem. The solution we found was to use the Bigbro, or one of the big cams, placed upside down at the lip to direct the rope out and around the cams back under the roof. This worked out pretty well for us.
You can belay from cams 30 feet above the lip, then continue with Orange Julius , or you can belay and rap from slings at the end of OJ’s 2nd pitch. One 60 meter rope will get you down from there.

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