Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,955 total · 23/month
Shared By: Rog on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


66 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a great climb, classic Lumpy flared crack. Three pitches (each about 100-120') of pretty consistent 5.8, followed by one pitch of easy rock to reach the summit. The first 40' or so of this climb are shared with 'Climb of the Ancient Mariner'. From the approach trail, climb the ledge systems up until the ledges change to rock....

P1 - Climb the corner for the first 40 - 50 feet, then continue straight up where Climb of the Ancient Mariner goes left to the bolt & roof. Continue up the cracks / flakes for the better part of a ropelength until a 'good' belay spot is found. Take your pick - jam deep in the crack, lay it back, or find features on the face. There is no real ledge to be found, so I suggest just finding the best place to build the anchor and go for it.... Gillett's guide says to belay 'level with a roof on the left'.

P2 - Continue straight up from the belay, working a classic Lumpy flared crack. Try using the crack for the right side & face / edge with your left side. Aim towards the right side of a small roof. Find a belay somewhere below or at the roof. Again, no real ledges to speak of, so pick the best spot. Referencing Gillett, this pitch is 'hard to protect'. Since I followed I cannot give too strong an opinion; I think gear is there, but you might have to hunt for it.

P3 - If the belay was below the roof, climb to it, then traverse left under it. I felt this part to be a bit tricky. As soon as you exit the roof to the left, climbing becomes much easier but you'll probably enjoying some rope drag. Continue straight up until the drag becomes a drag. Still no great belay ledges, but cracks abound - pick a spot & build a station.

P4 - Easy terrain to the summit.

Descent - Walk off to the back, then wrap around climber's right down the gully. There are great views of the Left Book climbs from the descent.

Protection

Standard Lumpy rack. You can find placements for big stuff (4") if you're carrying it - but not needed.

Photos