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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Scott Kimball and Chip Salaun, 1979
Page Views: 1,908 total, 11/month
Shared By: Luke Clarke on Sep 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route ascends the south face, a short way around the corner from Orange Julius. It appears to not see a lot of activity even though it has a sweet hand crack and three different 9+ cruxes. Look for the first chimney (as you move east to west), just west of the Foxhead, a large squarish formation at the southeast corner of the Bookend.

P1. Find an easy start behind a tree up to a short easy handcrack. Surmount that to a ledge that leads into the chimney. Climb the chimney past a bolt on the face and get good gear at the left edge of the chimney and traverse left (or clip the bolt and traverse lower) for a spooky 5.9 move or two to the base of perfect Lumpy hand and foot crack. Jam for 40 feet to a stance. Traverse right and downward (9+) to a belay inside the chimney. (The bolted line tempting you up and left to chains is a 10d variation).

P2. Climb a wide easy flare (with lots of fat gear placements) until the crack closes at an overhang and obvious 9+ crux. A comfy belay pod is to the right after you solve this.

P3. Wander up and left (west) through wide flares and discontinuous cracks (5.7 or 5.8) to the base of an all too obvious chimney.

P4. Grunt on up the 5.7 chimney and then run the rope out as far as possible on easy ground.

P5. Another pitch (or simul-climbing) on easy ground is required to top out and descend as for Ancient Mariner.

Protection

Cams up to the #4.

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