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Routes in The Bookend
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Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft, 6 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,706 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Season raptor closures
Details
Seasonal Raptor Closures March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
For up to date closures visit: nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is one of the classic climbs at Lumpy, it has varied spicy climbing the whole way. The first pitch begins at the southeast corner of the Bookend. Look for an obvious corner capped by a large triangular roof 40 feet up.
P1. Lieback up the 5.8 dihedral to the bottom of the roof and undercling the entire length of the roof, .10a or b. The holds on this section are all really positive, but the feet suck, make sure to place pro after the crux for the second. Belay at a bolt anchor by an obvious tree on the left.
Variation: climb up until you're about 5' below the roof, place pro, and downclimb about 10'. Then do a rising traverse left (5.9) to the edge of the roof.
P2. The second pitch is short. Continue up the crack on 5.8 climbing and angle up right on an easy face to the base of a large flake. Belay at some slings.
P3. For the third (also short) pitch head right around a blunt arete and do a 5.8 foot traverse. This part is pretty runout (30' or 40' fall potential) for both the leader and second. At the end of the traverse squeeze up an easy wide crack and jam a 30' 5.7 hand crack to a belay in a corner.
P4. For the fourth short pitch, traverse straight left on an amazing 5.7 flake. This traverse is about 40', really exposed, and really easy. Belay off #2 Camalots at the end of the traverse.
P5. For the fifth pitch, climb up a runout 5.8 crack. #3 and #4 Camalots could help on this section.
P6. For the final pitch do a typical flared lumpy chimney (the most strenuous 5.7 you will ever do) to its top.
Then scramble a rope length of 5.0 stuff to the very top of the rock.
This is an awesome varied route, although it is six pitches, they are all very short, we did in a couple hours. Be prepared for several spots of runout 5.8.
P1. Lieback up the 5.8 dihedral to the bottom of the roof and undercling the entire length of the roof, .10a or b. The holds on this section are all really positive, but the feet suck, make sure to place pro after the crux for the second. Belay at a bolt anchor by an obvious tree on the left.
Variation: climb up until you're about 5' below the roof, place pro, and downclimb about 10'. Then do a rising traverse left (5.9) to the edge of the roof.
P2. The second pitch is short. Continue up the crack on 5.8 climbing and angle up right on an easy face to the base of a large flake. Belay at some slings.
P3. For the third (also short) pitch head right around a blunt arete and do a 5.8 foot traverse. This part is pretty runout (30' or 40' fall potential) for both the leader and second. At the end of the traverse squeeze up an easy wide crack and jam a 30' 5.7 hand crack to a belay in a corner.
P4. For the fourth short pitch, traverse straight left on an amazing 5.7 flake. This traverse is about 40', really exposed, and really easy. Belay off #2 Camalots at the end of the traverse.
P5. For the fifth pitch, climb up a runout 5.8 crack. #3 and #4 Camalots could help on this section.
P6. For the final pitch do a typical flared lumpy chimney (the most strenuous 5.7 you will ever do) to its top.
Then scramble a rope length of 5.0 stuff to the very top of the rock.
This is an awesome varied route, although it is six pitches, they are all very short, we did in a couple hours. Be prepared for several spots of runout 5.8.
Around Boulder, CO
Golden
Fort Collins, CO
The first pitch traverse left can be done at least 4 ways:
1) Undercling the roof, supposedly 10a, and the least obvious to me, since it looks strenuous.
2) About 10 feet below the roof, traverse on small but positive footholds with not much for your hands, maybe also 10a.
3) 6 feet lower, traverse with your hands on the positive holds, about 5.9.
4) Much lower down, angle up a crack until it ends, meeting variation 3, and supposedly 5.9.
The third pitch traverse to the right scared me silly the first time when I did it as part of Hot Licks. Coming off a thin 5.9 crux into the unprotected traverse, my head was not screwed on straight. Last year, it seemed reasonable. Gear above the belay, and a red Alien at your feet around the corner when you leave the last good handhold. This time, it felt totally easy. There are big but sloped footholds all the way. Still no handholds, though. May 2, 2004
Bozeman, MT
Westminster, Colorado
Westminster, Colorado
On p3 DO NOT PULL THE ROOF, this will set you up for a difficult 10-R crack that leads into the center of the classic traverse on p4, rather again stay low and traverse 10 ft of so before some pro and then up in the crack to the belay at p4
The roof is not so bad, but the chimney - oh my... Oct 10, 2005
Colorado
Castle Rock
Fort Collins, CO
Oh, and for pitch 2 make sure to leave the belay from P1 (just past the lip of the roof) and join back into the crack as it comes up from the roof. We went up and left from the belay and ended up doing a rather runout traverse to the right from the crack system over to the belay at the top of P2. This was significantly harder and more run out than the "R" section of P3.
Fun route... enjoy!! Sep 16, 2008