Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Filip Sokol and Del Monte, 1968
Page Views: 1,157 total · 5/month
Shared By: Erik Corkran on May 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the farthest left of the major chimneys on the Bookend, very noticeable from the ground. The crux is sustained though most of the route is much easier. A fun route for those who enjoy chimneys (hopefully there are still a few of us out there).

P1. Climb crack/dihedral system (mostly 5.4-5.6) about 80 feet to the base of the main chimney. Climb about 20 feet up the chimney / crack to a nice stance (5.8?).

P2. Climb the deep flare for about 120 feet. This sustained and fun chimney pitch protects well with normal gear on the inside. 5.8, 120 feet.

P3. Continue up much easier chimney system with many ramps and features inside to another good stance.

P4. "Walk" through to where you can join the main wall to the summit, or pick a variety of other mostly-easier but fun options. Climb low 5th class rock for 150 feet to the top (this can be pitch 5, depending on what you did for pitch 4).

Protection

Standard rack, no giant gear needed, though a #3.5 Camalot (and maybe a #4?) was useful. Stoppers useful also.

Photos

J C Wilks
Loveland, CO
  5.8 PG13
J C Wilks   Loveland, CO
  5.8 PG13
A route to rival anything Vedauwoo has to offer at this rating, as a bonus it's four pitches long and you're actually on a summit when you finish. I added a star for every time the description included the word fun!!! Jul 16, 2017
Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.8
A number 5 would be useful on pitch 2. Jul 22, 2017