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Routes in The Bookend

Blood Feud T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bombay Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corinthian Column T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Dihedral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grovelly Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Handbook T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Licks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knight's Gambit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Knight's Gambit Variation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Labor of Lust T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Orange Julius T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pineapple Juice T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sicilian Defense T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sorcerer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Southern Cross T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Strawberry Short Cake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Summer Festival T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sun King T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarantula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Treebeard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Truth T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Chasm T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Gauge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1
Winds of Fortune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Filip Sokol and Del Monte, 1968
Page Views: 739 total, 4/month
Shared By: Erik Corkran on May 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the farthest left of the major chimneys on the Bookend, very noticeable from the ground. The crux is sustained though most of the route is much easier. A fun route for those who enjoy chimneys (hopefully there are still a few of us out there).

P1. Climb crack/dihedral system (mostly 5.4-5.6) about 80 feet to the base of the main chimney. Climb about 20 feet up the chimney / crack to a nice stance (5.8?).

P2. Climb the deep flare for about 120 feet. This sustained and fun chimney pitch protects well with normal gear on the inside. 5.8, 120 feet.

P3. Continue up much easier chimney system with many ramps and features inside to another good stance.

P4. "Walk" through to where you can join the main wall to the summit, or pick a variety of other mostly-easier but fun options. Climb low 5th class rock for 150 feet to the top (this can be pitch 5, depending on what you did for pitch 4).

Protection

Standard rack, no giant gear needed, though a #3.5 Camalot (and maybe a #4?) was useful. Stoppers useful also.

Photos

Christina kalb
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Christina kalb   Boulder, CO
  5.8
A number 5 would be useful on pitch 2. Jul 22, 2017
J C Wilks
Loveland, CO
  5.8 PG13
J C Wilks   Loveland, CO
  5.8 PG13
A route to rival anything Vedauwoo has to offer at this rating, as a bonus it's four pitches long and you're actually on a summit when you finish. I added a star for every time the description included the word fun!!! Jul 16, 2017